Exhaust stud access
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Globe AZ
Exhaust stud access
I have a broken lower exhaust stud on my forward cylinder, and have for a while. I'm not looking forward to the normal procedure of pulling the head. I have the Jim's tool to drill out the stud, but access is blocked by the frame tube.
my question is this. If I disconnect all the motor mounts, including the rear swingarm to frame mounts, (2000 touring model) can I gain the inch or so needed to drill out the broken stud in-situ?
I realize I will probably have to re-align the motor when done, but that's a relative breeze. I also know that taking a head off isn't that hard, but I dont have a clean/secure area to do it, and I'm not paying 500 bucks again to have a shop do what amounts to a couple hours work, and not have my bike for a week.
my question is this. If I disconnect all the motor mounts, including the rear swingarm to frame mounts, (2000 touring model) can I gain the inch or so needed to drill out the broken stud in-situ?
I realize I will probably have to re-align the motor when done, but that's a relative breeze. I also know that taking a head off isn't that hard, but I dont have a clean/secure area to do it, and I'm not paying 500 bucks again to have a shop do what amounts to a couple hours work, and not have my bike for a week.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Tampa
Nothing's stopping you from trying that, but the common practice is pull the head (even though you don't want to hear that).
Quite frankly, pulling the head sounds way easier than the circus you're proposing.
Quite frankly, pulling the head sounds way easier than the circus you're proposing.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Globe AZ
pulling the head may indeed be easier, but I will be doing it in a parking lot. Dont need **** walking off it getting full of **** in the engine. Was wondering if anyone had done it like that or tried before. Isn't much of anything on these bikes that hasn't been tried before......
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2019
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From: OH
[QUOTE=ScottinAZ;18676948]pulling the head may indeed be easier, but I will be doing it in a parking lot. Dont need **** walking off it getting full of **** in the engine. Was wondering if anyone had done it like that or tried before. Isn't much of anything on these bikes that hasn't been tried before......[/QUOTE
true on on that last sentence
until you mentioned parking lot I wanted to suggest welding a nut to stub of stud if it was not broken off flush.
will removing front mount and jacking up engine give you the required clearance?
true on on that last sentence
until you mentioned parking lot I wanted to suggest welding a nut to stub of stud if it was not broken off flush.
will removing front mount and jacking up engine give you the required clearance?
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Globe AZ
Jacking alone wont work, the stud is in a direct line to the frame tube, so I need to get it about an inch or so either left or right of current location to clear enough for my drill or die grinder (smaller head) to get access. If I can gain that much, it will actually be a bit easier, as the alignment should stay good as long as I dont disturb the adjustments on the mounts, and just disconnect the end entirely. if it bolts back on, it "should" be in the same position that it was in before. A little bit of string will tell the tale.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: SW Ohio
All it'll cost is the price of new head from an off center in frame drill job and the labor to R&R it after you've spent 3 hours dicking with it. If I've learned anything in my life, it's that the "shortcut" almost always takes longer and costs more.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Eastern NE
No friends w/ garage?
f not, like Mattbastard suggested, park next to bike, put parts/tools inside, cover motor w/ HD plastic bag & duct tape (if needed). IMO, head removal is best...if drill slips, or isn't in-line - you're screwed (literally).
f not, like Mattbastard suggested, park next to bike, put parts/tools inside, cover motor w/ HD plastic bag & duct tape (if needed). IMO, head removal is best...if drill slips, or isn't in-line - you're screwed (literally).
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Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Granville New York
Nobody's done it because it's so m6ch easier to pull the head. Where the hell do you live that you're a) afraid your bike parts will walk off while you're working on it, or b) the weather will change so suddenly that the perfect day you chose to work on your bike turns into a monsoon and fills your motor with water? Come on dude...you even said it yourself, " it will only take a shop s few hours". You can't gather your gaskets and tools for the job and knock it out in a single day? I think not hurrying I could have my front head off in an hour or so, rear is a little tight so that one takes me a little longer because of the lack of specialty tools but still. You're trying to find a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I also wonder why it keeps breaking, that's not "normal". You have a problem somewhere with the exhaust. You seem capable of doing the job ,so like max said about shortcuts is so true here in that you're going to make it more work than necessary. Don't try to reinvent the wheel.