OK, doesn't matter. Whether re-installing original cams or new cams, a cam was used as a driver to install the inner cam bearings. I assumed, always dangerous, that because you were using a cam to install inner cam bearings, you were replacing cams but, like I said, doesn't matter for the purpose of Scrapyeroc's situation.

 

OK, thanks. Now back to your original questions.

#1. In that case, my bearings must be good! It's just tough to feel because these Koyo needles spin so well!
OK, we know inner bearing install is good.
#2. Because I haven't found a proper tool to take off the existing thrust washer. Sorry, I misused my terminology. It's the inner cam bearing race for the OUTER bearing. As in, it sits inside the rear bearing in the cam plate, and outside the rear cam journal in the cam plate.
If the rear cam does have a race on the outer journal and it is in good condition, no need to remove. However, it can be pulled off if there is enough room to get the jaws of a split bearing puller behind the race.
#3. I understand this, and I do have the service manual. The question is: do you have to use the cams to install the outer cam bearings into the plate, or can they simply be put into a press and sent in flush. I'd love to do the oven/freezer method, but then I'd also have to remove my bypass spring and plunger. I have a friend with a press instead. This is only an issue because I have a limited time to use the press, but am not set on which cams I'm going to use. So, if I can press the outer bearings without a cam, that would be better than pressing with a cam, and potentially pulling that cam out, necessitating a new bearing to go with the new cam.
Like I said in my previous, freezer/oven has been used by many with success. You don't have to remove the bypass spring and piston but you do have to remove the "cleanout" plug at the top of the cam plate; it is rubber. I would remove the bypass spring and plunger anyway just to polish the plunger and after the bearings have been installed reinstall the piston and make sure it moves freely in the bore. Might want to install the Baisley spring; it will boost low rpm oil pressure. You can also use the freezer/oven method to drop the cams into the outer bearings. Heat the cam plate with bearings installed, cams in the freezer over night; cams with inner chain on and timing marks aligned will drop right in. Have to be quick though as the hot/cold temps normalize pretty quick and cams may have to be tapped in to seat properly and you don't want to stress the bearings by pushing on the inner race. If you have access to the press, pressing outer bearings is easy. The setup to press the cams in will take longer than pressing the cams in; cams have to go in together.[/color]

 

I am installing the new Screaming Eagle cam plate, not the original. I am having trouble finding anything on the SE plate that looks like the cleanout plug you refer to on the OEM 99-06 stock cam plate. Is there a possibility that this plate does not have said cleanout plug? I have seen a lot of different instructions for the oven/freezer method. Does anyone who has done it have a specific temperature/time to shoot for?

 

It would have helped to know what cam plate the OP is working with. I assume the SE cam plate is the "hybrid" plate? The other SE plate has bronze bushings for the outer cam journals, not bearings. The SE plate is billet, not cast, so there is not a need for a clean out plug but if there is one, it will be at the top of the cam plate. I have used 250*-300* for 15-20 minutes for the early cam plate so start there and make an adjustment if necessary.

 

Sorry it took me so long to respond.

The SE25284-11 kit comes with the SE cam plate, and yes I used it.

My trusty Ultra now coming up on 87,000 miles! I just got a new rear tire, mirrors and Fast Aire windshield to install and in early March off to Florida (Daytona, VJMC vintage MC show and friends and family).