Not to start an argument but have changed cams as many a three times in less than a year and used the same pinion and rear cam with no issues. Not suggesting anyone else follow that example but this has been my experience. Yes, I always clean the threads, both male and female. If these were high torque fasteners, maybe I would be mor concerned but considering the fine threads, bolt diameter and the 24# and 35# torque, just don't see an issue. I have always been able to apply the specified torque by holding the brake with the trans in 1st gear.

I have never "pounded" a cam shaft to install an inner cam bearing but have "tapped" them in using a camshaft after freezing the bearings over night; never had an issue either. I do have the tool now since I started assisting friends and family members with cam swaps but would not hesitate to go caveman in a pinch.

 

no argument, i was just passing on my experience and things I learned while working for HD.
m

 

thanks I found the answer. On page three step 5 they are saying make sure you don't cover the rear oilr hole for the chain with the bearing retainer plate. On the old plate they have a hole in it so the oil can get to the chain. I do appreciate the advice

 

Hi Marco, finally someone commented on my "caveman" techniques! I know most would not have done the cam hammer thing, but I may be one of the "experienced and skilled". Not professionally, but I've worked on my own stuff since I was a teenager (I'm 61 now). (About 4 years ago I had my boat Ford 351W engine apart down to just the cam and crank, and put back together).

My 06 Ultra has gone almost 5 years and 30,000 miles since my install, so I think I "cavemanned" it pretty well. I will agree some of my ideas are not for everybody.

 

Ok, I'm in the middle of this repair now and I have a few questions:

1. After I installed the new inner bearings (using the screaming eagle tool), I slid a single cam in each bearing and spun it around to check for binding. The front feels pretty good, but the rear seems like it's binding due to vertical play. Any idea if this goes away when it's actually installed with the plate, or do I need to purchase a new bearing and reinstall?

2. You reused your cams, which I will be doing as well. On your rear cam, did you pull the old thrust washer, o ring, and inner bearing race and install the new ones that come in the kit, or just use the old ones that were on there? If you did remove them, what did you use to get them off?

3. Do you need the cams to press the bearings into the support plate, or did you use a different method? If installed separately, how did you get the front cam into the bearing?

Thanks!

 

This thread is pretty old and a new post might get more replys but I will try to answer your questions. If you don't have the service manual, particularly the HD manual, you need to get one ASAP.

Now to your questions.
#1. You can't really tell if the inner cam bearing is in a bind by rotating the cam shaft in the bearing. If you used the tool the bearing should be seated properly and true in the bore but bearings can be defective out of the box. Feel inside the bearing and roll the rollers; do this to both bearings. The rollers should roll freely, if they don't, replace the bearing. If the rear is in a bind, you should be able to feel the difference between the front and the rear with you fingers.
#2. Glasspilot did not reuse his cams; he used his old rear cam to install the inner cam bearings for new cams.Why not use the new thrust washer and o-ring? Not sure what "inner cam bearing race" is referring to. The rear cam journals run in the inner cam bearing; no race.
#3. Cams cannot be installed one at a time; this is why you need the service manual. The inner cam chain has to be on the rear cam sprockets the dots on the sprockets aligned for proper timing.
Install the cam bearings into the cam plate; press them in with a hydraulic press or use the freezer/oven method. Freeze the cam bearings over night, heat the cam plate in the oven at about 300* for 15-20 minutes and the bearings will drop right in to the cam plate. Have a socket that matches the OD of the cam bearing so it can be tapped in if it doesn't drop in all the way and seat. You cannot press against the inner race of the outer cam bearings

 

#1. In that case, my bearings must be good! It's just tough to feel because these Koyo needles spin so well!
#2. Because I haven't found a proper tool to take off the existing thrust washer. Sorry, I misused my terminology. It's the inner cam bearing race for the OUTER bearing. As in, it sits inside the rear bearing in the cam plate, and outside the rear cam journal in the cam plate.
#3. I understand this, and I do have the service manual. The question is: do you have to use the cams to install the outer cam bearings into the plate, or can they simply be put into a press and sent in flush. I'd love to do the oven/freezer method, but then I'd also have to remove my bypass spring and plunger. I have a friend with a press instead. This is only an issue because I have a limited time to use the press, but am not set on which cams I'm going to use. So, if I can press the outer bearings without a cam, that would be better than pressing with a cam, and potentially pulling that cam out, necessitating a new bearing to go with the new cam.


Thanks!

 

Yes I did.

I did this install just over 6 years ago and all is well. I head South on my annual FL trip in one month. 84,000 miles on bike.

 

First, to be clear, I assume you are working on a '99-'06 model? You did not provide that information. '99s are funny, running change to the rear bearing from ball to roller mid year and from keyed outer cam journals to splined. From your description of the inner race of the rear outer rear cam journal, it sounds like you are working on a '99 up motor that was put together post the above referenced changes. So, to make sure we are on the same page, please confirm model year.

 

2001 T Sport