203 Cams install
So with only 23k miles on the bike should I just keep the old oil pump installed? I was looking at Dennis Kirk for push rods but don't really know what Im looking at. Any recommendations?
2. Change inner cam bearings as has been suggested; HD part number 24017-10. You can rent a blind hole puller from AutoZone, just be sure the correct collet is in the kit. You can install the new bearings "caveman" style with one of your old cams used as a "driver" and tap them into the bearing bore. They should be installed numbers facing out and flush with the case. Freeze them over night and liberally apply assembly lube before installing. Or you can spend $100+ for the Heartland inner cam bearing R&R tool.
3. Even if the tensioner shoes are not worn, replace them with the CYCO shoes.
http://www.harleydavidsontensioner.com/
4. SE Tapered Quick Install pushrod kit, HD PN 18404-08; a complete kit with pushrods, O-rings and clips. Learn how to adjust pushrods so you get it right the first time. With only 23K miles on the lifters, I would not replace them. They are the "B" lifter and are the best the MoCo used; made in the USA by Delphi. Just pay attention to what bore they came from and replace them in the same bore. Orientation of the oil hole does not matter.
5. I would not be concerned with the OEM oil pump but if you want to replace and upgrade, Drag Specialties now sells an upgraded oil pump for the early models.

6. You can use the brake to hold the pinion shaft to R/R the rear cam and pinion sprockets or you can buy the cam sprocket locking tool.
7. If you have not yet upgraded the motor to Stage I with hi-flow intake and exhaust, you are pissing in the wind installing cams; the motor needs to breathe.
8. If you have upgraded to Stage I and the motor is EFI, the next upgrade after cams should be a fuel management system and a dyno tune. If carbed, a re-jet is in order.
9. Rocker box cover, cam cover, cam plate O-rings, lifter block and exhaust port gaskets will be required.
10. You will need foot and inch pound torque wrenches and some cam/assembly lube.
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2. Change inner cam bearings as has been suggested; HD part number 24017-10. You can rent a blind hole puller from AutoZone, just be sure the correct collet is in the kit. You can install the new bearings "caveman" style with one of your old cams used as a "driver" and tap them into the bearing bore. They should be installed numbers facing out and flush with the case. Freeze them over night and liberally apply assembly lube before installing. Or you can spend $100+ for the Heartland inner cam bearing R&R tool.
3. Even if the tensioner shoes are not worn, replace them with the CYCO shoes.
http://www.harleydavidsontensioner.com/
4. SE Tapered Quick Install pushrod kit, HD PN 18404-08; a complete kit with pushrods, O-rings and clips. Learn how to adjust pushrods so you get it right the first time. With only 23K miles on the lifters, I would not replace them. They are the "B" lifter and are the best the MoCo used; made in the USA by Delphi. Just pay attention to what bore they came from and replace them in the same bore. Orientation of the oil hole does not matter.
5. I would not be concerned with the OEM oil pump but if you want to replace and upgrade, Drag Specialties now sells an upgraded oil pump for the early models.

6. You can use the brake to hold the pinion shaft to R/R the rear cam and pinion sprockets or you can buy the cam sprocket locking tool.
7. If you have not yet upgraded the motor to Stage I with hi-flow intake and exhaust, you are pissing in the wind installing cams; the motor needs to breathe.
8. If you have upgraded to Stage I and the motor is EFI, the next upgrade after cams should be a fuel management system and a dyno tune. If carbed, a re-jet is in order.
9. Rocker box cover, cam cover, cam plate O-rings, lifter block and exhaust port gaskets will be required.
10. You will need foot and inch pound torque wrenches and some cam/assembly lube.











