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Minimum cylinder pressure

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Old 11-14-2014, 03:17 PM
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Default Minimum cylinder pressure

99 EVO engine, at least 48K miles - giving me hell not starting when it is cold. Only hits on front cylinder. Done all of the ignition checks (plugs, wires, swaps, etc), all AOK. Checked rear cylinder pressure - 88 pounds - did the oil-add - same. No, haven't checked front, have to remove tank to get tester in place. Am I at the point of needing heads done? Dumb question - can heads be removed without pulling engine? Thanks.
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 03:47 PM
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I believe 100 is the min. Difference between cylinders should be less than 15%. Yes, heads can be removed with the motor in frame.
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by tobascofred
99 EVO engine, at least 48K miles - giving me hell not starting when it is cold. Only hits on front cylinder. Done all of the ignition checks (plugs, wires, swaps, etc), all AOK. Checked rear cylinder pressure - 88 pounds - did the oil-add - same. No, haven't checked front, have to remove tank to get tester in place. Am I at the point of needing heads done? Dumb question - can heads be removed without pulling engine? Thanks.
If all your getting is 88 lbs I would say it is time to take it apart.
I wouldn't stop at the heads though I would take off the jugs too so that you can inspect them and the pistons as well.

All of this can be done with the motor in the frame.
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:58 PM
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Thanks for the responses - I think enough cold has set in my area that the winter tear down can begin tomorrow...
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 06:24 PM
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Default cyl. comp. test.

Originally Posted by tobascofred
99 EVO engine, at least 48K miles - giving me hell not starting when it is cold. Only hits on front cylinder. Done all of the ignition checks (plugs, wires, swaps, etc), all AOK. Checked rear cylinder pressure - 88 pounds - did the oil-add - same. No, haven't checked front, have to remove tank to get tester in place. Am I at the point of needing heads done? Dumb question - can heads be removed without pulling engine? Thanks.
How are you doing your cyl. comp. test ? No reason to remove tank.
Your description of " did the oil add - same " dosent compute ?
Correct procedure for cylinder compression test is ... run motor to operating temp., ensure you have a fully charged battery , remove both spark plugs , ground out both spark plug wires or disable coils , install cylinder pres. gauge into spark plug hole , open choke , open throttle completely and hold open , rotate engine for 10 seconds and observe the gauge. Comp. should rise evenly to a maximum reading and stabilize there.
Record the reading and do same for other cylinder.
Next ... add an ounce of motor oil into the cyl. to be checked a second time , wait 5 min. for the oil to migrate , do same procedure as above and record the readings for each cylinder.
Last ... You should show approx. 90 lbs. for each cyl. in the first check.
You should show a higher pres. for each cyl. after the oil added step.
What is important is the difference in readings between both cylinders.
If you see a difference of more than 10-15 lbs. between both cylinders you have a rebuild in your future.
Be advised that a compression test is a start point only. Other inexpensive test procedures are available to specify a particular area of possible problems like valves etc.
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by machinehed
How are you doing your cyl. comp. test ? No reason to remove tank.
Your description of " did the oil add - same " dosent compute ?
Correct procedure for cylinder compression test is ... run motor to operating temp., ensure you have a fully charged battery , remove both spark plugs , ground out both spark plug wires or disable coils , install cylinder pres. gauge into spark plug hole , open choke , open throttle completely and hold open , rotate engine for 10 seconds and observe the gauge. Comp. should rise evenly to a maximum reading and stabilize there.
Record the reading and do same for other cylinder.
Next ... add an ounce of motor oil into the cyl. to be checked a second time , wait 5 min. for the oil to migrate , do same procedure as above and record the readings for each cylinder.
Last ... You should show approx. 90 lbs. for each cyl. in the first check.
You should show a higher pres. for each cyl. after the oil added step.
What is important is the difference in readings between both cylinders.
If you see a difference of more than 10-15 lbs. between both cylinders you have a rebuild in your future.
Be advised that a compression test is a start point only. Other inexpensive test procedures are available to specify a particular area of possible problems like valves etc.
FWIW the first time I checked mine I got 140 in each cylinder.
I haven't checked it after the rebuild but I'm sure it is higher now.
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:03 PM
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H-D state min pressure as 90lbs
 
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Old 11-15-2014, 08:38 AM
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Thanks Spanners. Any idea why even with only ~ 88 pounds and everything else obvious checking out that my scoot would fail to hit at all on rear cylinder when it is cold (less that 35 degrees)?
 
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Old 11-15-2014, 08:43 AM
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Machinehead - there is no room to thread in the comp test tool on the front cylinder unless I remove the left side tank - borrowed comp tool has very rigid hose and scoot has 5 1/2 - 6 gallon set of fat bobs that force a 45 degree bend of the tubing ~ 3 inches above spark plug bore.
 
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Old 11-15-2014, 09:02 AM
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You should be able to buy a compression tester with a more flexible hose for around $20.


FWIW, my motor currently measures 140# in each cylinder at about 100,000 miles. When new (after break-in) it measured 150# in each cylinder. That's with stock cam.
 


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