And Baker makes an IPB that does away with that race.

 

I update the drive pulley, spacer and seal to the -95.

More spline engagement and a wider spacer to keep pulley from tipping.

Carefull pulling 5th gear out of the bearing, the lip that retains the bearing in the case can break off ruining the case.

 

That was a great write-up. Thank you. I had the complete opposite. The main gear race was so loose it slid off the shaft. Luckily the gear splines were not buggered up and I was able to install a brand new race without complications.

 

thanks i might need this write up soon ,just bought a 96 flht snapping belts left and right from previous owner, only paid 2500 cause they didnt wanna tackle it

 

my Bad. I don’t know how to erase these yet.

 

hey I know this is an old thread but to get a sticky we need to ask a moderator.? what does a sticky do for us? is this thread too old to ask a question about?

 

If you don't ask, we can't help you.

 

Hello , this is a common issue with the evo's the early design as my 92 flhs came with the inner collar was deeper and did not engage with the splines as much. as prior poster mentioned the 95 and up has shorter spacer and the splines engage deeper. and I was able to rid the movement and properly torque the new nut and loctite the retaining bolts. Also note the bikes are heavy and I run shinko brand 777's they hook I did a 5th to 3rd wot shift at 6500 it is a 96" stroker evo. s&s. so it pulled the splines out of the old pulley. I have put over 700 miles on the bike since repair. just wanted to help others.

 

Hate to say it, but the reason that the the inside of the pulley looks like a grease soaked mess on a 5 speed, is the quad seal was not installed, or the quad seal just got old and cracked to alone the trans oil to flow around it.
Note, with the pulley spacer a rusted mess as well, looks like there is also leaking at the outer seal to it as well. So really, pulley spacer should be replaced as well.



Hence pulley spacer has the tapered ID side that goes inward, but the quad seal has to go in first, then the pulley spacer next. The outer main seal will seal off against the outside of the pulley spacer , but without the quad seal being compressed to seal off the ID of the pulley spacer, your going to get leaking through the ID of the pulley spacer on the shaft spines like you have.

As for the older 4 speed trans that did not have the quad seal, not the end of the world, since you can just chuck the pulley spacer up a lathe to chamfer taper the Inner ID side of it, and add in a quad seal.

 

When removing the primary race sleeve, use a torch to heat it up, so the puller does not have to strain to get it off.
When pressing it back on, use some 290 loctite to glue it in place, so it not walking inward after the fact (and the reason that you need to use heat to get it off again as well).

As for the sleeve verse all ***** bearing that does not use the sleeve, my take is use the sleeve with OEM style bearing, since when the primary case bearing takes a dive, its just going to mar the sleeve, verses marring the shaft, and putting you back down the same road replacing a shaft again.

As for 5 speeds, tend to go +2 on the front pulley, since it lowers over all RPM range. But keep in mind that increasing front pulley by one, is close to change the rear by 3, and if motor is having a hard time keeping up with two upright from the start with OEM pulleys, going to be worse with the change isntead.