So after installed the new 10" PYO bars my upper brake line would no longer reach. I went through JP cycles and ordered a Russel stainless braided brake line kit. This kit however is not available with the extended +6" upper hose. That I purchased separately through them as well. Turns out the one they sent me had a hose in it that was exactly the same length as the one I got in the kit. Returned that and ordered it again from a different supplier. That hose came and was indeed the longer and correct hose.

Someone must have been pissed off they had to order the kit and another upper extended line separately. Then just returned the stock length hose in the extended hose package for a refund. Well they screwed me cuz I had to send it back and wait a few more days for the right one to arrive. Can you believe the nerve of some people. I made sure to contact JPcycles and explain to them the deal and to not resell it to someone else as it is not the right hose in the package.

Got everything hooked back up and they routed fine and look great. I had previously read everything I could find here on bleeding these front brakes. Here's what I found out. When lines are completely empty the lever doesn't do much good at all. I used the stock bleeder at 1st and my vacuum pump to pull fluid until it was clear and fresh out of each caliper bleeder. I then one at a time replaced those stock bleeders with speed bleeders. Wrap the threads with Teflon to be sure no air is coming in from those. I could then keep pumping the lever until no more air was coming out of either side caliper. No need to keep seating the bleeder screw with the speed bleeders as they have a check valve. Kept doing this until I was satisfied the air was gone. I eventually got a hard lever and brakes work well.

 

You have to remove the inner fairing to get to the bar clamp yea? How much of a wiring nightmare is that? Thinking of changing my bars, how you like the 10s?

 

No need to pull the inner. Just the handlebar cover.

 

I work with electronics daily so that task was fairly easy for me. There are kits available to extend the wiring. Found a bunch on eBay, and actual ordered one myself. But the kit didn't work in my case. Wire colors were not an exact match, and pins for connectors didn't match my connectors. So do your due diligence and talk with supplier ahead of time to make sure you get what you need. They send heat shrink tubing with the kits so you will need a heat gun.


some have gotten by without extending anything when going to these 10" bars. Didn't work in my case. Wiring and brake line would not have worked. Maybe things are different for some year models. So far I really like the bars, but its still on the lift, due to come down today. Wish me luck!

 

Post up some pics. When I changed over to the 10" bars I extended the wires myself. I wish I'd have pulled the tank because the wiring was looped back with a wire tie and I probably could have gotten away with factory. But I still would have had to cut them due to running the wires through the bars.

 

I had to add about 12" to get them routed thru the bars comfortably. The pins can be pulled from connectors easily, there are kits available on eBay that could make it easier. Double and triple verify pin location and map them out on paper first. There is no way my stock wiring would have been long enough to go thru bars. Not enough to have any extra for connectors anyways, that 12" still only gave me about 6" of wire inside the fairing.

 

You don't need to"pull" the inner...but on some models you have to unbolt it and move it out of the way... to get an Allen wrench in the handlebar clamp.

 

Ty

Here's a couple pics of my '91 when I had it all apart.

 

Stupid phone, uploading pics never works right. Hope they are here this time. They show easy access to the riser clamps on my model.