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No fire on rear cylinder

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Old 10-23-2015, 02:20 PM
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Default No fire on rear cylinder

I'm no electrical diagnostician and I'm at my wits end...
Long story short; my rear cylinder quit firing while riding and I had to limp home on the front cylinder. Checked rear cylinder for spark and it was very weak, barely visible. Front cylinder was fat and bright in comparison. I replaced plugs, wires, and coil(Accell Super Coil, single fire), no change. Could the crankshaft sensor or ignition module be faulty? How to check?
Thanks in advance to anyone with helpful links or advice on what to check next.
Semper Fi!


1995 FLSTN Heritage Softail Special, 20k miles, Andrews EV-3 cam, Crane HI-4 Ignition module
 

Last edited by hiwaycruzer; 10-23-2015 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 10-23-2015, 02:26 PM
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Check your electrical connections & grounds & do a compression check just to narrow things down.
 
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Old 10-23-2015, 02:41 PM
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What year and Model bike?

Stock ignition?
 
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Scootertrash60
What year and Model bike?

Stock ignition?
'95 FLSTN Heritage Softail, 20,800 mi. Prev owner states he installed a "high performance ignition" and Andrews EV-3 cam. Also had a Crane single fire coil on it when I bought bike last August.
Thanks for the reply Scootertrash60.
 
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by hiwaycruzer
'95 FLSTN Heritage Softail, 20,800 mi. Prev owner states he installed a "high performance ignition" and Andrews EV-3 cam. Also had a Crane single fire coil on it when I bought bike last August.
Thanks for the reply Scootertrash60.
Can you find out what "high performance ignition" you have?

Did you check your connections and grounds like previously asked?
 
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Tommy C
Check your electrical connections & grounds & do a compression check just to narrow things down.
Thanks Tommy C
The problem is I don't know what electrical connections to check. I'm a bit of a bonehead when it comes to electronics. But I do have a volt-ohm meter and know basic electrical theory(don't touch red lead to negative, remove battery when working on electrical system)
 
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Can you find out what "high performance ignition" you have?

Did you check your connections and grounds like previously asked?
I checked for security of the wires to the coil and for any bare spots in the insulation, everything OK. And no, I have not inspected the high-perf. ignition yet.
I read somewhere that if the coil, plugs, and wires have been replaced, then either the ignition module or camshaft position sensor are likely culprits. Given the age of the bike I'd just as soon replace them both for peace of mind if nothing else and see what happens.
 
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by hiwaycruzer
Thanks Tommy C
The problem is I don't know what electrical connections to check. I'm a bit of a bonehead when it comes to electronics. But I do have a volt-ohm meter and know basic electrical theory(don't touch red lead to negative, remove battery when working on electrical system)
There are wires connected to your coil you could start there.
You should have 12v on the + side of your coil.
 
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by hiwaycruzer
Prev owner states he installed a "high performance ignition". Also had a Crane single fire coil on it when I bought .

Crane HI 4 cone type ignitions are notorious for dropping a cylinder when they fail...since you had a crane coil, you may have one...just pull the "points" cover to see.
 
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Old 10-23-2015, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
Crane HI 4 cone type ignitions are notorious for dropping a cylinder when they fail...since you had a crane coil, you may have one...just pull the "points" cover to see.
Thanks Tom84FXST, sounds like a great suggestion, will do that and see...
 


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