Thanks to Crashone and Hackd for the input on how to deal with the electrical. The last 2-3 days I took the headlight off and tackled the interconnect harness problems. When I did I found out the issue was simple fixes but massive amounts of them. I found many more of the deutsch connectors that had been cut to a stubby. So as suggested I looked up a vid on how to take apart the connecters. I just ejected the unused wires. Then I look where the wires from speedo was crimped into the wiring harness and taped up with just plain electrical tape where there was bare wires showing.( I know the liquid was better but I had to use what I got right now.) It stopped the shorting out issue. I rode the bike to Walmart again and it stopped cutting out at a dead stop. All I need now is seal pins (part 72195-94 from the microfiche).

Then a stroke of inspiration hit me on how to fix the lever issue. I said in post past I had issues with the lever had to be half way before the brakes started working. The same issue caused my brake light to stay on unless it was pushed out. I figured out there there was a gap between the master cylinder plunger and the lever. That caused the lever to have to travel further to engage the brake. Because that plunger wasn't pushing on the lever,it wasn't hitting the brake light switch. So my inspirational temp fix was in the form of knockouts from metal electrical boxes from rewiring the garage. I took 3 from that was laying around and shimmed that gap. That made the lever very tight. Just a gentle press and the brakes instantly works. Also it now striking the switch so I don't have brake light on at all the time except when I hit the brakes.
I did something else that may not have been a good idea. I did spray carb cleaner on the plunger thinking it may clean it and get it to push out further on it's own. However it didn't do anything I assumed it would do. It did give me a revelation that I wasn't aware of,before I shimmed it I put the lever in and pushed in and out. As it the plunger came out air bubble started forming. So I am just wondering if this means there is trouble with the seals brewing. Could be normal but I'm not so sure. All I know is the fact there was a 1/4 inch gap between the plunger and the lever. Wondering if that means there is issues with the master cylinder as well,again not sure.

That leaves the 3rd issue that I have no direction with. I have an occasional miss and a little backfire. Tried cleaning the plugs and that didn't work. I been using premium octane gas, so I don't think that is an issue. The only thing that was pointed out is the mufflers. They was gutted on the right pipe and not the left. So basically I have straight pipes on the right exhaust pipe. According to a few I asked, the fact it is running straight pipe is not creating enough back flow to keep the gases from igniting in the manifold. I know on both It happens more when going down the road than at an idle. I could just sit and idle and nothing really happens until I pull on the throttle.

So right now I just guessing that the straight pipe may be a part of issue,possible carb issue like a rejet or I **** out of ideas.

 

IMHO, that was the best way to 'fix' the wiring issue and still maintain the integrity of the wiring harness and connectors. Too bad the previous owner didn't take the time to do it that way...

Sounds like your front brake master cylinder is in need of a rebuild. Not a major project. I do know that getting the lever to correctly seat into the plunger can be a real MF.

The miss sounds like you have a leak in your manifold seals/gaskets. They get old, they leak. When that happens, you get a 'miss' as they suck air. Mine would 'miss' at around 70 mph, but only when I ever so slightly rolled the throttle on. A set of new seals and a couple hours on the lift, the miss was gone. In typical HD fashion, you get to remove a lot of parts, just to get to the bad ones. The job can be done with the tank installed (I did it that way), but if I ever have to do it again, I'll pull the tank. Cut down an Allen wrench (if needed) to get to some of the socket heads.

 

Glad you got that sorted out. You should rebuild that master cylinder before the brakes go FUBAR or you hit a ohshit situation.
Ride safe.

 

Sometimes misses are hard to diagnose. There are common issues like intake leaks. My experience with those is that it's a lower RPM range issue. I had a miss at higher RPMs and replaced the coil, wires and VOEs and one of those was the issue and now it's fixed. I feel like it was the VOEs but, it could have been the coil. I do not suspect the plug wires but, I had a brand new set just sitting around doing nothing anyway.

In a car (my old motorhome) if you start experiencing a miss when pulling a hill or something it's pretty common to say it's plug wires, cap and/or rotor button. So, same theory applies. It can be the ignition but, you just have to kick it around till you find the issue.

 

I suggest you dismantle your master cylinder and check it very carefully. I have owned my bike from new and in my early ownership used whatever brake fluid was going, out of ignorance. One consequence was the interior of my master cylinder became corroded, with the interior of the cylinder matt grey, with deep pits in it. Your plunger isn't returning fully, which is why you have that gap to the lever, which may be a similar problem to mine. Very well worth checking, as a matter of urgency!