There's quite a few discussions about replacing the clutch hub for older Evos (1984-1989) that have keyway tranny shaft. I had to replace mine because of broken fingers off of the original clutch hub. The aluminum clutch hub fingers/standoffs were known to break easily. The manual is a great thing to have for areas that I gloss over. Be sure to use proper torque and loctite where appropriate.

Disassembly: I'm going to skip taking off the primary. It's straight forward out of the manual. Criss-cross backing out clutch spring bolts. Remove the spring, pressure plate, and clutch plates/steel plates out of the clutch basket.

There are several methods of getting the clutch hub off the main shaft, but having a puller is the best method. (See pictures). Use the existing bolts to mount the puller, turn the large center bolt slowly and keep turning until the hub "pops" off the shaft. It's best to have a piece of brass on the end of the shaft to protect it from the tool's large bolt. You might have to tap the center bolt with a plastic hammer a few times. Don't go crazy.

Disassembly: I purchased an aftermarket steel clutch hub from eBay ($109), and it came with a keyway reinforcement ring. A really good quality aftermarket part. You will need a hydraulic press for the next steps. You should also purchase a new clutch hub bearing ($22). It's definitely a good idea since pressing out the clutch hub may damage the clutch bearing, because there's no way to support the bearing. Take off the circlip around the clutch hub end. Press the clutch hub out off the clutch basket. Take out the larger circlip next to the bearing, and press the bearing out from inside of basket out towards back.

Reassembly: Take a flat piece of metal and cover the whole bearing and press the bearing flush against the clutch basket surface. The bearing is pressed from the backside of the basket in. Now, use the old bearing to press the new bearing all the way seated. Once this happens you can reinstall the large circlip. You must be careful setting up the next step to press in the clutch hub. The inner steel race of the bearing must be supported by a large socket (36mm) to ensure there's no damage to the bearing when the hub is being pressed in. Install the circlip and you are done. Then, press in the reinforcement ring.

Hope this helps someone who will need to do this job.

 

I just did mine a few days ago. Real good advice and pics. The retainer washer will hopefully ensure the inner hub won't split like the original.

 

Also check for high spots near keyway and use machinist lapping compound to true up fit.

 

Was there any wobble in the basket-hub after new bearing? I just installed the same hub and new bearing and can rock the basket about 3/16 side to.side. Before install, I checked both the old and new bearings and noticed the cages had about the same side play. Thanks

 

The hub was tight as a drum with zero play.

 

Any chance you remember what bearing you used, part #?

I used a Koyo 6207ZZC3 which was interchangable. I think the axial tolerance may be a little too loose for this application. I can grab the ring gear and rock it on the hub with clutch plates removed. You can just barely see the side play in the bearing move. Havent installed onto shaft yet.

 

I wish I could help you Brian. That repair was over 2 years ago now and I gave all the parts invoices to the buyer when I flipped the Softail. Sorry dude.
Mike

 

No prob. Hoping the original poster chimes in.

 

Hey Brian, I had suspected my 86 with the same issue as you describe. Brought it to my Indy and he assured me its good, but mine only moved about an 1/8" As long as there's no movement in the bearing cage I think your'e fine.This was after upgrading to a recent newer hub and bearing.

 

Thanks for the reply. The new bearing's cage had a little side rock in it straight out of the package. Bought two just in case and they both have the same play and seemed the same as the old.

Basically if you held it flat and pressed the cage it would rock in and out about .010. Once the bearing was installed, the clutch outer shell would rock enough in the bearing to hear a click. I think this is too loose even though it spins perfectly smooth. Ive been told most bearings have axial play and tighten up once the load is applied. However, most that have installed a new bearing say they no longer have the play so curious what brand/part# bearing they are using.

Parts fiche shows a 9025a trans door bearing but Drag shows 37906-84 clutch hub bearing.
I used a Koyo 6207 ZZ C3 which was interchangable.

UPDATE: Looks like the bearing I used (Koyo 6207 ZZ C3), to replace the original OEM *** 6207 ZZ explains the extra play I have.

C3 is used where greater than normal room for expansion is needed beteeen the races due to thermal expansion.