1986 FLT transformation
#21
Ok so I've been busy at work and haven't had much time to work on the bike. I came to the realization today that summer is getting closer when a road king passed me. I went home and grabbed the fairing and started the fiberglass repair/customizing. I am going to fiberglass the speaker holes that the last guy hacked into the fairing next to the gauges. I am filling the lock holes and storage compartment doors so that I can mount speakers there. I was able to get the first coat of mat down on the door covers. Tomorrow after I drop my daughter off I am going to put another coat of mat and resin on to bring it up to height and get ready for finishing.
What I started with
Contoured to fit
Routed out so it will be a little low.
Clean up started
Glasses in getting ready to put some
Mat down
First coat of glass done
Contoured to fit
Routed out so it will be a little low.
Clean up started
Glasses in getting ready to put some
Mat down
First coat of glass done
#22
#23
I can add only that it is not terribly unusual to have some DOT 5 silicone brake fluid contamination on brake pads. Particularly on a scooter with such a history, I would expect that a freshening of the present brake system might well make you pretty happy - and that is really cheap to do.
I'd just clean the gal up and properly fix what's liable to give unreliability problems - and ride her - but the machine's down so far now you may as well grasp the nettle.
The die is cast. And I bet that is precisely what you want - to grasp the full esthetic of the old evo.
Good! You'll know all about it when she's up and going. Kudos to a man with adventure in his heart and a thirst to really know an art form.
I'd just clean the gal up and properly fix what's liable to give unreliability problems - and ride her - but the machine's down so far now you may as well grasp the nettle.
The die is cast. And I bet that is precisely what you want - to grasp the full esthetic of the old evo.
Good! You'll know all about it when she's up and going. Kudos to a man with adventure in his heart and a thirst to really know an art form.
#24
Engine number question
I found a few number decoder but none of them make any sense when I decode the number on my case. I'm trying to make sure the case is going to be ok to mill out or if I have to go another route. I've read that the earlier cases are not strong enough to handle the milling. I was told by the guy that I got the bike from that the motor was out of a 94 but I don't think the guy knew what he was talking about. Here is a pic of the number on my cases if someone could help me decode it.
#25
Join Date: Jan 2011
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I found a few number decoder but none of them make any sense when I decode the number on my case. I'm trying to make sure the case is going to be ok to mill out or if I have to go another route. I've read that the earlier cases are not strong enough to handle the milling. I was told by the guy that I got the bike from that the motor was out of a 94 but I don't think the guy knew what he was talking about. Here is a pic of the number on my cases if someone could help me decode it.
http://www.harleys.de/engine.html
Is the motor you have a head breather or a case breather?
It should be a head breather.
#26
#27
According to this decoder you have a softail motor out of a '94.
http://www.harleys.de/engine.html
Is the motor you have a head breather or a case breather?
It should be a head breather.
http://www.harleys.de/engine.html
Is the motor you have a head breather or a case breather?
It should be a head breather.
The motor is a head breather. I am just curious how u got 1994 out of that. I thought the B meant 1981 but that didn't make any sense to me.
#28
#29
I've done a tad bit of 'glass work. On your 'glass work, for better strength of the repair, you should feather it in to the existing glass. That is, grind down the area around the hole for, say, an inch, or even a half inch, with a bit of a taper, then build it up with your mat.
Was that fiberboard you cut to fill the hole? A bit overkill. I would do it: Grind that lip off completely, then put a piece of cardboard with some wax paper on it taped to the back of the hole, then (with a taper extending out in the existing part), fill it in with mat layers, probably about 3 or 4. When it is all laid up, put another piece of wax paper over the top and kind of smooth it all out. That will give you a lot less sanding to do afterwards. You might even throw a piece of cloth in the middle of the mat pack if you wanted some additional strength.
Anyway, looks good.
Was that fiberboard you cut to fill the hole? A bit overkill. I would do it: Grind that lip off completely, then put a piece of cardboard with some wax paper on it taped to the back of the hole, then (with a taper extending out in the existing part), fill it in with mat layers, probably about 3 or 4. When it is all laid up, put another piece of wax paper over the top and kind of smooth it all out. That will give you a lot less sanding to do afterwards. You might even throw a piece of cloth in the middle of the mat pack if you wanted some additional strength.
Anyway, looks good.
#30
I've done a tad bit of 'glass work. On your 'glass work, for better strength of the repair, you should feather it in to the existing glass. That is, grind down the area around the hole for, say, an inch, or even a half inch, with a bit of a taper, then build it up with your mat.
Was that fiberboard you cut to fill the hole? A bit overkill. I would do it: Grind that lip off completely, then put a piece of cardboard with some wax paper on it taped to the back of the hole, then (with a taper extending out in the existing part), fill it in with mat layers, probably about 3 or 4. When it is all laid up, put another piece of wax paper over the top and kind of smooth it all out. That will give you a lot less sanding to do afterwards. You might even throw a piece of cloth in the middle of the mat pack if you wanted some additional strength.
Anyway, looks good.
Was that fiberboard you cut to fill the hole? A bit overkill. I would do it: Grind that lip off completely, then put a piece of cardboard with some wax paper on it taped to the back of the hole, then (with a taper extending out in the existing part), fill it in with mat layers, probably about 3 or 4. When it is all laid up, put another piece of wax paper over the top and kind of smooth it all out. That will give you a lot less sanding to do afterwards. You might even throw a piece of cloth in the middle of the mat pack if you wanted some additional strength.
Anyway, looks good.