EVO All Evo Model Discussion

1986 FLT transformation

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 01-21-2017, 06:39 PM
Rowansdad's Avatar
Rowansdad
Rowansdad is offline
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Middlesex county CT
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ok so I've been busy at work and haven't had much time to work on the bike. I came to the realization today that summer is getting closer when a road king passed me. I went home and grabbed the fairing and started the fiberglass repair/customizing. I am going to fiberglass the speaker holes that the last guy hacked into the fairing next to the gauges. I am filling the lock holes and storage compartment doors so that I can mount speakers there. I was able to get the first coat of mat down on the door covers. Tomorrow after I drop my daughter off I am going to put another coat of mat and resin on to bring it up to height and get ready for finishing. What I started with

Contoured to fit
Routed out so it will be a little low.
Clean up started
Glasses in getting ready to put some
Mat down


First coat of glass done
 
  #22  
Old 01-22-2017, 09:27 AM
Beemervet's Avatar
Beemervet
Beemervet is offline
Ultimate HDF Member

Join Date: May 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 6,591
Received 435 Likes on 317 Posts
Default

Nice work with the 'glas.
 
  #23  
Old 01-22-2017, 10:00 AM
pie plate's Avatar
pie plate
pie plate is offline
Road Master
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: chico
Posts: 768
Received 55 Likes on 53 Posts
Default

I can add only that it is not terribly unusual to have some DOT 5 silicone brake fluid contamination on brake pads. Particularly on a scooter with such a history, I would expect that a freshening of the present brake system might well make you pretty happy - and that is really cheap to do.

I'd just clean the gal up and properly fix what's liable to give unreliability problems - and ride her - but the machine's down so far now you may as well grasp the nettle.

The die is cast. And I bet that is precisely what you want - to grasp the full esthetic of the old evo.

Good! You'll know all about it when she's up and going. Kudos to a man with adventure in his heart and a thirst to really know an art form.
 
  #24  
Old 01-22-2017, 06:19 PM
Rowansdad's Avatar
Rowansdad
Rowansdad is offline
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Middlesex county CT
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Engine number question

I found a few number decoder but none of them make any sense when I decode the number on my case. I'm trying to make sure the case is going to be ok to mill out or if I have to go another route. I've read that the earlier cases are not strong enough to handle the milling. I was told by the guy that I got the bike from that the motor was out of a 94 but I don't think the guy knew what he was talking about. Here is a pic of the number on my cases if someone could help me decode it.
 
  #25  
Old 01-22-2017, 07:09 PM
texashillcountry's Avatar
texashillcountry
texashillcountry is offline
Dirt don't hurt

Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
Posts: 20,999
Likes: 0
Received 4,317 Likes on 1,946 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Rowansdad
I found a few number decoder but none of them make any sense when I decode the number on my case. I'm trying to make sure the case is going to be ok to mill out or if I have to go another route. I've read that the earlier cases are not strong enough to handle the milling. I was told by the guy that I got the bike from that the motor was out of a 94 but I don't think the guy knew what he was talking about. Here is a pic of the number on my cases if someone could help me decode it.
According to this decoder you have a softail motor out of a '94.
http://www.harleys.de/engine.html

Is the motor you have a head breather or a case breather?
It should be a head breather.
 
  #26  
Old 01-22-2017, 07:16 PM
Dr.Hess's Avatar
Dr.Hess
Dr.Hess is offline
Seasoned HDF Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: NW AR
Posts: 8,013
Received 2,706 Likes on 1,343 Posts
Default

Yeah, that's not how the numbers were stamped in '86. So, going with "guy knew what he was talking about."
 
  #27  
Old 01-22-2017, 07:21 PM
Rowansdad's Avatar
Rowansdad
Rowansdad is offline
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Middlesex county CT
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by texashillcountry
According to this decoder you have a softail motor out of a '94.
http://www.harleys.de/engine.html

Is the motor you have a head breather or a case breather?
It should be a head breather.

The motor is a head breather. I am just curious how u got 1994 out of that. I thought the B meant 1981 but that didn't make any sense to me.
 
  #28  
Old 01-22-2017, 07:22 PM
Rowansdad's Avatar
Rowansdad
Rowansdad is offline
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Middlesex county CT
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Yeah, that's not how the numbers were stamped in '86. So, going with "guy knew what he was talking about."
Yeah out of 100 things gen told me about this bike this is basically the first thing that matched. I guess everyone gets lucky once in a while.
 
  #29  
Old 01-22-2017, 07:46 PM
Dr.Hess's Avatar
Dr.Hess
Dr.Hess is offline
Seasoned HDF Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: NW AR
Posts: 8,013
Received 2,706 Likes on 1,343 Posts
Default

I've done a tad bit of 'glass work. On your 'glass work, for better strength of the repair, you should feather it in to the existing glass. That is, grind down the area around the hole for, say, an inch, or even a half inch, with a bit of a taper, then build it up with your mat.

Was that fiberboard you cut to fill the hole? A bit overkill. I would do it: Grind that lip off completely, then put a piece of cardboard with some wax paper on it taped to the back of the hole, then (with a taper extending out in the existing part), fill it in with mat layers, probably about 3 or 4. When it is all laid up, put another piece of wax paper over the top and kind of smooth it all out. That will give you a lot less sanding to do afterwards. You might even throw a piece of cloth in the middle of the mat pack if you wanted some additional strength.

Anyway, looks good.
 
  #30  
Old 01-22-2017, 07:49 PM
Rowansdad's Avatar
Rowansdad
Rowansdad is offline
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Middlesex county CT
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
I've done a tad bit of 'glass work. On your 'glass work, for better strength of the repair, you should feather it in to the existing glass. That is, grind down the area around the hole for, say, an inch, or even a half inch, with a bit of a taper, then build it up with your mat.

Was that fiberboard you cut to fill the hole? A bit overkill. I would do it: Grind that lip off completely, then put a piece of cardboard with some wax paper on it taped to the back of the hole, then (with a taper extending out in the existing part), fill it in with mat layers, probably about 3 or 4. When it is all laid up, put another piece of wax paper over the top and kind of smooth it all out. That will give you a lot less sanding to do afterwards. You might even throw a piece of cloth in the middle of the mat pack if you wanted some additional strength.

Anyway, looks good.
Thank you for the idea today I ground down around the patch piece and feathered the second layer in. I have never done any type of fiberglass work before so I'll take any advice people wanna give. I like the wax paper idea at the end to smooth everything out.
 


Quick Reply: 1986 FLT transformation



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:46 AM.