I think he means "and twice as wide as the tab thickness".
Right Shex?

 

Something I'm thinking about after seeing that its working well for Shex, its entirely possible that my "hole" for the tab to sit in is not quite as square as in needs to be.. Hadnt thought about it till now, but if its not 100% square to the speedo drive, the tab will walk back and forth causing the wobble. Then, of course, it would also cause the tab to weaken and break off as mine has been.. Just a thought..

 

Mocked up the axle and sliders just to see what is going on. HGM, your pics are a big help.

 

[QUOTE=Beemervet;15773388
Did you machine the drive, or add a shim?[/QUOTE]

Ended up doing both,

the way the drive is built, it has a steel bushing with a flange, pressed or cast into the aluminum housing, I didn't realize it was a flange until I cut it to length.

I cut off both ends, trying to make it so I would not have to grind the fork lower for clearance for the drive, like HGM did.

After cutting the drive for the spacer length needed, the flange was cut off,

so when the axle was tightened, the steel bushing would press out of the aluminum housing because of the step from 1" to 3/4" machined on the axle like HGM's picture, and the steel bushing's OD was smaller than the inner race of the 1" bearing's ID.

So the bushing would press out of the drive housing when the axle nut was tightened, because the flange was gone.
I cut more of the drive, and made a washer/spacer that stopped the bushing from pressing out when tightening the axle,,, whew

note; I disassembled the drive for machining.

If I did it again would just cut the whole axle to 3/4, use 3/4" bearings, and machine the drive for the spacer length needed, and to clear the fork leg,
everything being 3/4", the drive couldn't press apart.



Yes, I used a file, cut the slot so the tab is loose in it, no binding,
also, I remember bending the tab up some, past 90 degrees because of the bearing OD.

JP cycles catalog with a list of different drives, ratios and spacer lengths

http://www.jpcycles.com/catalog/2015...?entrypage=381

sticky from wheels forum, may find some useful info

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/wheel...l-install.html

 

So, I could just put 3/4" bearings in my 2004 wheel and use my original 3/4" axle?

 

That's what I was wondering too, can someone answer this?


You would have to make bushings for the newer fork legs though, but I've already done this and it's not a problem.

 

John, I think your second sentence is your answer! One of the reasons I'm going with the 1" axle is to get the improved rigidity of the forks at the wheel. I also have later sliders.

 

Yes but you would have to have bushings made for the ends of the axle where it fits into the sliders....That's the reason I had my 1" axle machined down to 3/4" in the center section and left the outside ends alone. The small end of your 1" axle, after the taper. is less than 3/4". So if you have a machinist turn it down to 3/4 from the shoulder of the big end out to where it tapers to 3/4 it will slide right through all your 3/4 bearings, spacers and speedo drive but still have the correct diameter to fit your new sliders. I would rather have a solid piece than have 2 bushings but either way will work. You will also have to figure out what outside spacers to use as your newer sealed bearings in the 2004 wheel will not set in the wheel at the same depth as your old tapered bearings.

 

Don't try this with a 25mm axle, it's hollow.

Turn down to 3/4", or whatever the best bearing fit would be.