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1992 fxrt

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  #31  
Old 04-19-2017, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 92Fatty
I hear ya on the big sucker issue. I'm pretty sure I just have to get the 93 and up since my 92 heads have breather size holes except are nonbreathers.
It's something I'll have to look at as well.

Here is the cardboard bracket I'm going to cutout for my Tour Pak.

Easy day, just hope it doesn't slide off.


And I used Mothers Aluminum and Alloy polish- It brought back some life in those old Mags.


Ian
 

Last edited by IanM; 04-23-2017 at 02:53 PM.
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Hackd (04-19-2017)
  #32  
Old 04-19-2017, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by IanM
Hey Hackd,
Congrats on your Thunderheader install- I wasn't too crazy how the exhaust flanges weren't included with the pipe, also I'm not a huge fan of the rear mounting strap- Speedkings Cycles fabricate a rear mount similar to the Twin Cam mounts, I might be interested one in the future.
I re-used my OEM flanges (cleaned/polished 'em up a bit), although new ones are available from a variety of sources. Yeah, the Thunderheader rear mount for the FXR is, well...

I assume you put new conical exhaust gaskets in? I bought a kit of the James Gaskets that had some really nice new nuts for the exhaust flanges. I also purchased another bag of just the gaskets from James Gaskets. Good thing, because I pinched a couple of them during the numerous times I had to remove/replace the header due to various fitment issues....

You will need to re-torque those exhaust flange bolts. Probably a couple of times. I had to. Still need to check them again.

I can't see why the Ness BS stage 1, that I recently put on my 93 FLHS, wouldn't work on your 92. You just wouldn't be using the functionality of head breather built into the Ness casting, but with a bottom breather you don't need it. As long as the breather bolts can screw in far enough to snug the backing plate up, it should just bolt to the carb. Are the holes threaded? They are 1/2-13.

This is the Ness kit I used: http://www.jpcycles.com/product/402-080. It is also available in plain aluminum finish: http://www.jpcycles.com/product/400-867
 

Last edited by Hackd; 04-19-2017 at 04:21 PM.
  #33  
Old 04-20-2017, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Hackd
I re-used my OEM flanges (cleaned/polished 'em up a bit), although new ones are available from a variety of sources. Yeah, the Thunderheader rear mount for the FXR is, well...

I assume you put new conical exhaust gaskets in? I bought a kit of the James Gaskets that had some really nice new nuts for the exhaust flanges. I also purchased another bag of just the gaskets from James Gaskets. Good thing, because I pinched a couple of them during the numerous times I had to remove/replace the header due to various fitment issues....

I can't see why the Ness BS stage 1 that I recently put on my '93 FLHS, wouldn't work on your '92. You just wouldn't be using the functionality of head breather built into the Ness casting, but with a bottom breather you don't need it. As long as the breather bolts can screw in far enough to snug the backing plate up, it should just bolt to the carb. Are the holes threaded? They are 1/2-13.
Hey Hackd,
I chose to keep my old flanges on the FXRD exhaust for its future new owner.

I used the James kit as well. The nuts are much better then the rusty ones I pulled off.

The Shipping from JP kills me as I live in Canada- So I usually wait until I have a full order to make it worthwhile, but it is now on my list.

Thanks!
 
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  #34  
Old 04-20-2017, 11:49 PM
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I'd be interested in seeing the heads where The MoCo hadn't bored them for the top breathers.
 
  #35  
Old 04-22-2017, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Hackd
I'd be interested in seeing the heads where The MoCo hadn't bored them for the top breathers.
Here ya go Hackd,

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On to the on-going CV40 problems. Pouring out of the overflow tube.
FSM says to measure the distance from flange to the level on the float.

Nightmare of a job to be honest, I took a rip on the FXDXT just to blow off some smoke.

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  #36  
Old 04-23-2017, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by IanM
Here ya go Hackd,

Thanks for the pic. Appears to be some sort of plugs screwed into the heads with internal threads for mounting the OEM air cleaner plate? Back checking some of the earlier pics, it also looks like the OEM air cleaner cover trim has been removed, along with the OEM ignition pickup (cam cone) cover.

Originally Posted by IanM
On to the on-going CV40 problems. (gasoline) Pouring out of the overflow tube.
FSM says to measure the distance from flange to the level on the float.

Nightmare of a job to be honest, I took a rip on the FXDXT just to blow off some smoke.
Like most things Harley, you have to take off a bunch of properly functioning parts to get to the non-functioning one.

It looks like someone at some time or the other, has messed with that CV. I don't know about the 92's, but my 93 had a plastic fitting OEM for the fuel line at the carb. The chrome top cap is also an accessory item.

Your float needle is probably buggered, rather than the actual float setting. That will cause the fuel to pour out the overflow. I've been through a number of them in the 24 years I've owned my bike. I've developed the habit, to turn off the petcock each time I turn off the bike.

Do you intend on tearing the whole CV down, cleaning, and new gaskets/seals? I would do it all since you've got it off the bike. MAW (Might As Well): New fuel line and carb intake/mount gasket too. Good time to lube up the cables too.
 
  #37  
Old 04-23-2017, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Hackd
Thanks for the pic. Appears to be some sort of plugs screwed into the heads with internal threads for mounting the OEM air cleaner plate? Back checking some of the earlier pics, it also looks like the OEM air cleaner cover trim has been removed, along with the OEM ignition pickup (cam cone) cover.



Like most things Harley, you have to take off a bunch of properly functioning parts to get to the non-functioning one.

It looks like someone at some time or the other, has messed with that CV. I don't know about the 92's, but my 93 had a plastic fitting OEM for the fuel line at the carb. The chrome top cap is also an accessory item.

Your float needle is probably buggered, rather than the actual float setting. That will cause the fuel to pour out the overflow. I've been through a number of them in the 24 years I've owned my bike. I've developed the habit, to turn off the petcock each time I turn off the bike.

Do you intend on tearing the whole CV down, cleaning, and new gaskets/seals? I would do it all since you've got it off the bike. MAW (Might As Well): New fuel line and carb intake/mount gasket too. Good time to lube up the cables too.
I second the float needle being mucked up. Not sure if it is folk lore or not, but heard that on the cv carb needle some have either a four sided needle or a 3 sided needle. (the needle is shaped either square or a triangle) and of course the tip is a cone with neoprene rubber. Anyways, if replacing the needle, you need to match what was in there originally (if the one in there is correct). Look at that rubber cone for a worn ring or indent. It should be smooth. YD
 
  #38  
Old 04-23-2017, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Hackd
Thanks for the pic. Appears to be some sort of plugs screwed into the heads with internal threads for mounting the OEM air cleaner plate? Back checking some of the earlier pics, it also looks like the OEM air cleaner cover trim has been removed, along with the OEM ignition pickup (cam cone) cover.

Your float needle is probably buggered, rather than the actual float setting.

Do you intend on tearing the whole CV down, cleaning, and new gaskets/seals? I would do it all since you've got it off the bike. MAW (Might As Well): New fuel line and carb intake/mount gasket too. Good time to lube up the cables too.
I do believe the cam cover was off as some point, and the air filter is a Arlen Ness unit- which is nice..

I've taken the CV apart what seems like a 1,000 times, and gas still pours out. I've adjusted the float tab- I've used the James Gaskets rebuild kit- Still pours out, and I mean like crazy.

This is my first entire carb rebuild- My TC88 just needed a diaphragm- easy day. But this is a bit much for my knowledge level. I'm kind of thinking to go with a new Mikuni 42 and call it a day. What are your thoughts?

Originally Posted by Yankee Dog
I heard that on the CV carb needle some have either a four sided needle or a 3 sided needle.
I have a 4-sided needle- I've tried both needles too- not a fun couple days- thats for sure.

Thanks for reading and chiming in, I'm in some real need of advice.
Ian
 
  #39  
Old 04-23-2017, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by IanM
I'm kind of thinking to go with a new Mikuni 42 and call it a day. What are your thoughts?
If you don't plan on keeping the bike for any length of time, I'd just look for another CV. Or use it as a core for one of the numerous places that sell 'tuned' CV carbs.
 
  #40  
Old 04-24-2017, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Hackd
If you don't plan on keeping the bike for any length of time, I'd just look for another CV. Or use it as a core for one of the numerous places that sell 'tuned' CV carbs.
I've looked around in my area, maybe find a helping hand- not a lot of luck there.

And I need to get this carb situation sorted and put some miles on to know whether or not it'll be a long term bike-

There's a mail-away rebuild service on eBay, but its $200- Seems a little steep to me.
 


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