Can get a new Ultima/2000i for $104 on eBay today only. I'm going to kick myself if this ends up being my high rpm issue and I end up replacing it in a few weeks at full price.

 

Your looks like it may be starting to cook.

 

Corrected post meter right setting now.

Ok I removed the plate and insulated it from touching the engine. Here's my readings. I get continuity across two. Different combinations of the pins

 

To clarify. If I touch any pin to any pin I get a reading. The other one was 15. I don't get a reading on the other meter at all. I do not get a reading to ground so there's no short and nothing between the plate and the wires. I'm not quite sure how to read this meter. I threw a hair dryer and all three figures changed as it warmed up. Since I can't get a reading on the other meter would that mean the resistance is insignificant?

 

That looks like an auto-ranging meter. I don't like those. However, following the FSM,

Test: Sensor output1. Black lead to black wire of plug pin. Red to green sensor wire. Infinite resistance=OK. Any resistance = replace.

Test: Sensor output2. Black lead to green sensor wire. Red lead to black sensor wire. 300-750 K ohms=OK. Infinite = replace. Note that the books specifically says to use the x1 ohms scale but calls 300 ohms to 750,000 ohms an acceptable range, but infinite (open) as bad.


And given the observations people have had, I'm going to say test 2 should be 300K ohms to 750K ohms, not 300 ohms to 750K. Poorly written. Anyway, with that EXACT test, KP, what are you getting? Is it open one way and several hundred K ohms the other? If so, you are probably OK. If not, replace it.


98HRFB says: with black/black and red/green yes it's infinite. With red/black and black/green I have 978k ohms. On my new Standard Electric sensor same way I have infinite/263k ohm's.

I would think that 1 MegaOhm is pushing the outside limit of what the FSM says is OK. It is not infinite, but it is outside of what they say it should be. And if you see any heat sign, like goo or distortion, replace it. Like I used to say when I had an Esprit (RIP): How can you tell your Valero alternator is still working? Because it's dripping black goo on top of your AC compressor.

 

Dr. I posted two of the result pictures there's a third that reads 15.x on the same scale I didn't bother taking a picture of. If I connect any two pins I get a reading but only with this meter. The actron doesn't pick up anything. I can get the reading to fluctuate with heat. I'm not experiencing the typical no spark I'm experiencing no high rpm power which I have another thread going with no solution yet. Am I right that even my lowest one 5m ohms is 5000k ohms and outside the range?

 

The way I understand it is that with black on black and red on green it should be infinite..... But when you swap the meter leads it should read under 1m ohm. On both of your readings your over 1m ohm.
I had a similar situation where my motor fell flat on it's face at 5200 rpm and the dyno sheet shows it... It appeared that my Dyna2ki ignition was failing at high rpm. I know that because i sent the ignition back to dyna and they're tests confirmed failure. Although it was out of warranty (2 years old) they still gave me a good deal on a new one... $153.00 shipped.... Hope this helps..

 

Pictures of the meter without noting what connections you have where when the picture was taken are not terribly helpful. And I don't know what an actron is.

Yes, 5M Ohms is 5,000K Ohms and outside the acceptable range, per the manual, FOR TEST 2, but acceptable for TEST 1, and bordering on "open." So, not knowing what you hooked up where, we can't really tell what that means.

Obviously, the ignition is picking up some signal or it wouldn't fire the coil at all. I don't know if what you have would cause a high RPM problem, though. Also, from personal experience, if the voltage is low in the whole electrical system, it will cause a no-spark condition, but under full throttle and it might be OK under partial throttle or idle. This did not manifest itself as reduced power, but more of a no power at all, as there was no spark.

 

Ok I redid all the tests here's the info. I can only get readings with one meter. The other meter doesn't pick up anything.

 

OK, so on the output tests, test 1, you're good (black meter to black sensor, red meter to green sensor, good = open.) Test 2 is not looking real good, with black meter to green sensor and red meter to black sensor, PER THE FSM, 300(assume KiloOhms) to 750K Ohms as good and infinite (open) replace, youre at 15 Mega Ohms, which is outside of "good" but not quite open. The other meter not picking up anything at all would be open, open. It does read when you short the two leads together, right?

I think it's time for a new sensor plate.