I'm in the process of changing tires but not sure how the the rear wheel comes off. The front was easy,however I never removed the rear before. I have a little reserve when it come to messing with the belt tension. So how is it done?

 

I use the motion pro belt tension tool. It makes it easy

 

He hasn't got the wheel out yet!

Joe, it's no different to removing a rear wheel from a chain-drive bike. You need to create enough slack in the drive belt to enable you to disengage it from the pulley, so back off each tension-adjuster by the same amount, remove the axle etc., drop the wheel so you can disengage the belt. Having refitted the wheel you have the same routine of setting belt tension as with a drive chain, also aligning the rear wheel. Don't guess where belt tension is concerned, take Jason's advice and use the correct tool. I've owned my H-D one for almost 30 years!

 

Is the tension bolt the one that sticks out of the end of the swing arm?

 

Yes, but there is one on each side of the wheel. Loosen them each, about the same amount.

With the bike lifted and the wheel off the ground, of course.

Once they are loose, you can push the wheel forward and get some slack on the belt.

 

FWIW I can get the belt off on my bikes without loosening the belt tensioners.

 

That works on our Softails because the tensioner bolts bear against two spacers. When you start to pull the axle, the spacers slip off, allowing the wheel to come forward. If you do it right, you won't even need to readjust the belt.

 

If you don't have the FSM, get it. Removing the rear wheel is no big deal, but you will need to remove one of the mufflers (depending which side the nut is on) to slide the axle out. I generally removed both of them, but with my recent Thunderheader install, I'll only have the one to pull.

The FSM will have a diagram on how to bend up a 'tool' to measure the distance from the swingarm to the axle. There are other 'tools' that can be also used to measure it (a set of trammel points comes to mind).

Keep track of the spacers! Lay them out in order for each side.

Belt tension, I just go by the FSM 'deflection' method. 24 years on the original belt and no problems. And yes, the nuts on the ends of the swingarm adjust the belt tension AND the belt/wheel alignment.

Have a torque wrench available to tighten the axle nut to spec. Use a new cotter pin.

Good wrenching!

 

Here's a bunch of videos showing rear wheel removal. Pay attention to the wheel alignment when you tension the belt, too, if you do loosen the tension bolts. I'd check it anyhow when done.

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ley+rear+wheel

When I do mine, I take the lower shock bolts out, can drop the axle below the mufflers to make it easier getting it out, and you don't have the weight of the wheel to deal with, just jack the bike high enough to roll it out, and lower the bike till the axle slides in when putting it back on (unless you have one of those awful step on the pedal release jacks, but when it drops too low then you can jack it till the axle lines up). That rear wheel is heavy, and depending on your jack, the bike might try tipping forward. I'd tie it down on the jack, and if it's real tippy after the front wheel clears the ground, you might even want to take the front wheel off first. One of my cheap early jacks would tip over instead of lifting the front wheel off!

If you're doing the tires yourself, be careful not to set the wheel down on the disk side, there's more than enough weight there to bend it.

 

It helps to remove the brake caliper, too.