A little gratuitous gun ****!
Yesterday was the chief sammich makers birthday, and she wanted to go shooting. Who am I to argue!?!
So, nothing got done on my project.



All the stud are nipped down to clear the shocks.


Turns out I was just test fitting the plate... Because of the stud on the kicker side, there isn't enough clearance to squeeze it in. Notice where the ground wire is going to go.


And it's in - loosely, to fit the inner primary.


I'm a little worried about the oil lines. Especially the middle one. It's kind of 'pinched' against the shifter housing. Now that I look at this picture, maybe a 45deg fitting on the pump...


Inner primary back in place, temporarily, to get the tranny positioned right so I can lock it down.

As I said above, it was the Mrs. birthday yesterday and, for her birthday, she wanted to go shooting. So we went shooting, but nothing got done on the bike.
Today I cut the studs down on the Baker. I mounted the plate in there, thinking I could just set the tranny right in place. No go! The OEM tranny has 4 studs through the plate and a bolt that goes through the frame tab. With the 5th stud on the Baker, there wasn't enough clearance to snake the tranny into position.

I relocated the ground wire (from the regulator) to that front tranny plate mount. That may not be the best place for it, in order to get at that nut, you have to drop the shock. But this way, it's solidly mounted, clear of any potential hazards, and I DON'T have to disturb the motor mounts!

I quit, for the day, after I got the primary bolted back on. The OEM tranny (as I removed it) had 2 studs and two bolts. The Baker has 4 studs and I wanted to get new Nylok nuts for the final mounting. And, now that I look at it, I should probably do something with those oil lines, BEFORE I lock everything down... I also need to review the manual (RTFM!) to make sure I'm doing this right. I didn't disturb the motor mounts, so bolting the primary on tight - motor side first, SHOULD pull everything into proper alignment so I can torque down the tranny. As it sits now, the mainshaft spins easily. No binding, or noticeable deflection. On the other side, as you see, the kicker housing is setting on the front pipe. Looks to me like I'm going to have to do some 'fine tuning' with a hammer... I'll be happy as a pig in **** if the rear pipe clears!

Question for y'all! The two inner-primary bolts, on the right side of the engine, were originally (from the factory) safety wired together. The tranny rebuilder didn't wire them together, nor did he put anything on the threads. Should I (attempt to) safety wire them together? Or, should I put some blue (medium strength) threadlocker on them?

More to come!

 

I have to ask...whats up with the carriage bolts? What grade are they? The rear bolts don't appear to have any marks on the head... are they at least grade 5?

 

It was the Colony Transmission Hardware Mounting kit (in chrome) from Dennis Kirk. I had an unpleasant experience with J&P Cycle last year, so I decided to try Dennis Kirk instead. DK only listed the chrome set, but it was only about a dollar more than what J&P listed the nickel plated version for. I never thought about grade...and that's the biggest reason I bought the kit - rather than try to find the pieces locally. I would assume, maybe erroneously, that they would be the proper grade for their intended purpose.

 

Blue threadlocker should work fine. Great post with pics Btw...

 

[QUOTE=Tom84FXST;16364525]I have to ask...whats up with the carriage bolts? What grade are they? The rear bolts don't appear to have any marks on the head... are they at least grade 5?

Be very careful those they aren't grade 5. They are very soft and strip easily. There is a reason for the low torque. I went to a fastnal and ordered a better grade from them.

 

They may be OK, I personally will not use Colony stuff on critical fasteners....seen too many fail.


Those particular bolts I would use grade 8...but that is probably overkill.

 

This is too good and I love greasy pictures especially when someone else does the work. Our very own Mark from Baker packed your parts in post 20. That is his personal pillows he sleeps on most of the day that his boss made him ship.

 

Alright, settle down folks!

According to MY book, the tranny mounting plate gets 18-20lb/ft of torque and, the tranny gets 20-22lb/ft of torque. The tranny plate, the other day, got a grunt... 12" long, 3/8" drive ratchet. The tranny nuts, today, got a grunt. Same ratchet. I typically only break out the torque wrench for mission critical jobs... Head bolts, wheels ends, etc... I MIGHT break out the torque wrench for the compensating sprocket nut and the clutch nut...

 

Gonna be nice to get a report upon completion with a few pics to boot....

 

Bit a a moot point being that you're going with the Colony hardware. However, if one is looking for Grade 8 bolts, and doesn't have a Fastenal nearby, check Tractor Supply Store. I've found Grade 8 bolts there before no problem.