Looks like he needs a new chain to me too.

 

Was thinking same thing...

 

Well ****! I guess I should have popped that seal out of the clutch nut after all!

No, I didn't put in a new primary chain. I don't remember it being that loose when I tore it down - there were only 4 shims in the tensioner. When I got it back together, added that 5th shim, and saw how loose it was, i was like ****! I should have bought a new primary chain! At that point though, I didn't want to take it back apart and wait ANOTHER week to get it running!

As you can see, I have an issue. I was a little confused when I put it back together. I left the seal in the clutch nut - Baker, in their transmission instructions says "ALL YEARS must use the 3/8-24 [adjuster screw] (pn37090-6-4) and seal (pn.3125x.875x.250) in the stock clutch nut... " In their 'Splined Shovel Clutch' installation guide, they say "...If you are running a modern primary...Remove the seal (pn .33125x.875x .250) from the clutch nut..." That leak is coming from the O-ring, between the inner primary and the engine case. I THINK pressure built up in the primary, because I left that seal in the clutch nut, and blew out the O-ring. Regardless, I have to pull it back down to fix it. BECAUSE I have to pull it apart again, I picked up a new primary chain, O-ring, and primary cover gasket. Believe it or not, the local dealer didn't have an EVO primary chain in stock! He could get one from HD, in 5 days...or from Drag Specialties the next day. In the mean time, leak or not leak, I put about 25 miles on her - and gave her her annual bath/polish.

I have to say, I'm impressed! First of all, neutral is a BITCH to find! Although, I think that once I get a properly adjusted primary chain installed, that problem will go away (That's why I installed that Hayden initially. It cured the problem of finding neutral with the OEM clutch/transmission). TAP the shifter peg forward, and it's in first. NUDGE the shifter peg backward and it's in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, etc. Really, it's like riding a new motorcycle! But, after nearly 30 years of riding the same bike, it's easy to get lost. What gear am I in?!?

No more 'rowing' the shifter peg to grab your gear! The OEM 4spd was ALWAYS sloppy - presumably, because of the compound linkage used. More levers and pivots equals built-in slop. There is a positive 'stop' in 1st and 6th gears. When looking for 1st, or 6th, the shift peg doesn't move past them. 1st gear, in the Baker, is (numerically) higher(?) and doesn't require as much throttle/clutch slipping to get rolling, and for me, anyway (I shift by seat-of-the-pants - how it feels/sounds), this is what HD should have done from the factory! 25mph in 4th gear, turning about 1200rpm, and she feels comfortable - roll on the throttle, and she's right there. 35mph in 5th (~1500rpm) and she's happy. 55mph in 6th, she's happy...70, or more in 6th, she (and I) am happy! I could actually read the tach and speedo at 75mph!

The only real negative I have is the kicker pedal. When I come to an intersection and have to plant my feet, that kicker pedal is jammed into the inside of my right leg...

When it's all said and done, for ME, it was well worth the dead presidents I shelled out for the tranny and clutch. In the next week, or two, I'll have pulled it back down and removed that clutch nut seal, installed a new primary chain, installed a new o-ring between the engine and the inner-primary and be ready for years of riding!

 

Good old Harley never die as long as you let them mark their spot...

 

I'd be surprised if you built pressure and blew out your o-ring,I'm thinking it may have moved out of the groove when you put the inner back on. You will see a pinch mark on it if I'm right,when you take it back apart. Let me know if I'm right...

 

Here I go again...


The old O-ring, that I pulled off the case. No rips, no tears, and no pinch marks...



Back together, with the new O-ring and a new primary chain.


Now I have another problem!

Only one day off this week, so I did as much as I could before the _)(*&)*)(&# mosquitos drove me back in the house.

The o-ring wasn't pinched anywhere, nor was it ripped or torn... But it was definitely leaking from there. There was a drip at the junction of the inner primary and the motor case. From there it dripped onto the frame and rolled back. The new o-ring, which came from the local H-D dealer, is a light blue color and is a touch thicker.

I don't know what the hell happened to that adjuster... I wasn't cranking on it, and I had the socket sunk in as far as it would go. It split right at the 'corners.' Oh well, on hold now until I can get a new one. Gives me time to figure out what's wrong with the neutral light. The switch is buried so far in there that, with the pipe on, I can't get a test light on it. Now that I have the pipe off, I can reach it.

 

That large o-ring between the inner primary cover and the case crank flange requires the proper bead of silicone sealant also. The ring should be laid into a bead and another bead applied over before putting on the primary cover.
That is in the OEM Harley Service manual.

 

I have never needed silicone to seal the derby cover on my '97. The only time i;ve had a leak was from over tightening and warping the cover.

 

No one is talking about the derby...it's the inner primary o-ring to the engine case....which I never apply any sealer to,just a new ring any time it's off,never leaks either. But now I'm curious if my manual says use sealer with o -ring,not that I will use any next time..

 

my book just has silicone going on the bolts not the o-ring ?