...and I'm wondering:

Will it break my trans?

It's a Sputhe 5-in-4 trans with a BDL clutch...

It did come with a dry primary with beltdrive so alternatively I could make that fit I guess...?

Anyone with experience with regards to a performance 124"?

It's rated at 125 RWHP and lots of torque so I guess dragracing V-rod at the lights should be fun?

 

A friend upgraded everything inside the case because he bought an s&s 124. He got the Bandit clutch.

You will learn how to use a grinder, not everything ( maybe anything) is a direct bolt -on at that level you're choosing to go.

His name is jasper86 and is a member of this Evo forum. You could look up his thread.

He let me ride his bike after it was completed, it is going to be faster than you expect.

Best wishes!
Tom

 

Word of advice for safety, your bike will go faster than it can slow down and faster than your brain processes. Make sure you remember this when throttling with a curve ahead, first thing I learned.

You may need a Bandit, Scorpion or Rivera clutch, good exhaust. Personally would only do full throttle roll on's, no hole shots and not take a chance on twisting the input shaft on the trans, the torque is severe stress on the trans if it hooks.

 

Thanks for the advice!

As far as speed is concerned, I also have a 330 BHP turbocharged old school dragbike so I'm used to fast bikes that don't turn LOL

Still building the FXE so grinder is not a problem, lots to figure out anyway!
Brakes on the bike are 6-pots from a Suzuki racebike with 320 mm floating discs so better than original, reartyre is only 150 wide so I don't think it'll hook up anyway but big rolling burnouts the lenght of the street will do me just fine!

Will look into the clutch, I'm not sure what the deal is with the beltdrive primary that came with it...

Quite excited now...!

 

I run a Ultima which is now a 130" but run some S&S parts in it including the S&S 640 cam, same cam in the 124". Believe it or not the S&S 124" is set up slightly soft for production motor reasons, bump up the compression with some port work, same 640 cam, carb bore with Thunderjet and that engine becomes stupid. One of our members Jasper did the listed mods and afraid to say what that horsepower nutjob does when running the roads.

I had the compression up and large ports on my engine and it could move a bagger, didn't like the hot starts even with compression releases. Had a valve seat problem and put stock compression heads with slight port work back on it, lost some power but replacing starter clutches isn't a option no more or is it going to start in 98 degree heat? plus engine heat is down. There is trade offs for Harley power goods and bads

Drago's exhaust and the Vance and Hines Competition pipe is good for big engines. 2-1 exhaust is the only way to go with the monsters, sound may be off canter some but doesn't matter when the big boys come out to play

 

Well, mine's a TP engine (no, not made from toiletpaper) and should not be all that shy on power...

I run a 2 into 1 loooooong Supertrapp on my 96", might use that one although I do have a very nice baffled set of fat dragpipes that look and sound great!

Not sure if it would rob too muhc power though...

 

Oh, and I'm really into stupid so....!!

 

You will fit in!

TP makes good products, ran their oil system on a Harley stroker engine and was solid as a rock for 7 plus years keeping lifters pumped up to tame a Woods cam square lobes

Supertrapp will work on it since you have one, how many discs my take a dyno tune tho but the monsters need to breath, still need some backpressure on the bottom side even being torque monsters. Can tell when my packing is burnt out on the Drago's by slight loss of throttle response and the gurgle comes in when slowing down

 

No discs for me, open end cap.

It does suffer a bit low down but it runs much better between 3000 and 6000 rpm which is pretty much the revrange I tend to be in so suits me just fine.

Ot does burn through A LOT of wadding though!

 

I can't claim to have a 124", but do have a 107". When installing it the stock primary chain was worn, so were the teeth on the comp, so inspect yours and replace as required. Also replace all your rubber engine mounts and SERIOUSLY consider a True-Track stabiliser kit. At the time he installed my engine (2008), my indy reckoned my bike, with a T-T, was the best handling big twin he had ridden.