I had the ticking issue w adjustable pushrods, it was the clearance between the front exhaust pushrod and the tube as there were some scoring marks in the pushrod. Changed back to stock pushrods and voila, ticking gone. Maybe worth checking.

 

That reminds me, I had the same exact issue on a hot Sportster I had a few years ago. The new pushrods were thicker than the OEM ones and would hit the top of the pushrod tube every lift from the cam. Left a little wear mark on the side of the pushrod. I ground out the inner diameter of the top of that pushrod tube and that fixed it.

 

OK, so I ordered a rebuild kit for the oil pump which I now have along with a set of rocker lockers.
Also have new a new cam chest cover gasket, lifter block gaskets and rocker box gaskets.

Before I start to repair it I have a question. If the oil pump shaft is good and doesn't have to be removed, is it possible to rebuild the pump with the shaft still in place? As you know, road kings don't have a lot of space to work with.

 

No cam chest has a lot of room to work with.

I can't say for certain but I believe you can remove the clip ring from the pump drive shaft outer gearotor and the whole works will slide off, but I can't account for what will happen to the inner drive gearotor. (I'm calling them inner and outer gearotors because I don't know which one's high pressure and low pressure).

Personally, I'd take the whole works off, it's the right thing to do.