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Dremeler through plug. Worried

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  #11  
Old 09-17-2017, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
like the good DR said crank the engine over for a minuet deal with the mess, I would add putting a small thin round magnet in the hole and 39 seconds later pull it out and continue to flush if that's what lets you sleep at night then DO it

PS don't be modding the other screws just fix what happed and move along get a new screen

I had heard that it was 37 seconds, could 2 seconds make that big of a difference?
 
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Old 09-17-2017, 08:30 PM
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so the next issue is... and this is just me bein me. I don't know what kind of oil is in motor. So if I pump some out I don't know what to top off with. My gut tells me since it came from dealer that's it's whatever Harley uses. I appreciate everyone patience w me.
 
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Old 09-17-2017, 08:36 PM
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Most of us in the Evo section use non-synthetic (AKA "dino") 20W50. I would guess that most use the genuine H.D. non-synthetic 20W50, then next comes about any other non-synthetic 20W50 and last is full synthetic 20W50.

Uh, time to get a shop manual. FACTORY shop manual. It will save you a lot of pain in the future. BUT FEEL FREE TO ASK US ANYTHING.
 
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Old 09-17-2017, 09:00 PM
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You'll be fine. I had to drill mine and use a bolt extractor a few months ago. I don't think it had ever been removed. I had the motion pro tool, and it still wouldn't come out. Got shavings down in there but got it all out with a magnet. I put one of these in its place:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Colony-8703-...JY-aw0&vxp=mtr

I've also read about people cutting the slot deeper. You just went a little too far sounds like. No big deal. It's a bad design.
 
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Old 09-17-2017, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Most of us in the Evo section use non-synthetic (AKA "dino") 20W50. I would guess that most use the genuine H.D. non-synthetic 20W50, then next comes about any other non-synthetic 20W50 and last is full synthetic 20W50.

Uh, time to get a shop manual. FACTORY shop manual. It will save you a lot of pain in the future. BUT FEEL FREE TO ASK US ANYTHING.
 
  #16  
Old 09-17-2017, 09:21 PM
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Working on getting manual guys. Just got bike Friday. Any tips on adjusting the shifter prawl. I know you put it in 3rd gear and the shift arm should move the same amount front to back but do you really need those special tools to do it?
 
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Old 09-17-2017, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Fblo1690
Working on getting manual guys. Just got bike Friday. Any tips on adjusting the shifter pawl. I know you put it in 3rd gear and the shift arm should move the same amount front to back but do you really need those special tools to do it?
Have you done this and established that you have a problem with shifter pawl adjustment?
What bike do you have again?
 
  #18  
Old 09-17-2017, 09:47 PM
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I've ridden the bike around 200 miles and I've noticed sometimes when downshifting like at a light the shifter will move but not catch a gear. So I gotta rev a little and it'll down shift. I've had better luck down shifting while moving and coming to a stop but sometimes I like to coast in neutral to the light or the stop.

1997 Fatboy
 
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Old 09-17-2017, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fblo1690
I've ridden the bike around 200 miles and I've noticed sometimes when downshifting like at a light the shifter will move but not catch a gear. So I gotta rev a little and it'll down shift. I've had better luck down shifting while moving and coming to a stop but sometimes I like to coast in neutral to the light or the stop.

1997 Fatboy
The first thing I would check is to make sure the shift linkage hasn't come loose.
IE the locknuts backed off the rod connector ends.

Next with the bike off the ground put it in 3rd gear and with you hand see if the shift linkage moves the same distance forward and back.

Once you have done that then let us know what you found.
 
  #20  
Old 09-18-2017, 04:47 AM
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Make sure the shift lever at the transmission is tight on the shaft.
 


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