I really lost myself this weekend
#271
You really got my gears turning. Good read right here:
http://blog.jepistons.com/2618-vs.-4...al-differences
http://blog.jepistons.com/2618-vs.-4...al-differences
#272
Quick update:
Got the new piston and rings last week and spent Sunday getting the bike back together. Honed the hell out of both cylinders, cleaned bores, gapped rings on the new one (really needed it), and without going into all the detail did the first heat cycle.
I also put the bags on and installed a Memphis Shades Fats I got from somebody on Craigslist for $80. I just fabbed some stainless steel arms to mount the thing since my custom Road King/Street Glide headlight debacle doesn't have a kit, nor was I interested in spending another $100 for mounting even if they did.
Got the new piston and rings last week and spent Sunday getting the bike back together. Honed the hell out of both cylinders, cleaned bores, gapped rings on the new one (really needed it), and without going into all the detail did the first heat cycle.
I also put the bags on and installed a Memphis Shades Fats I got from somebody on Craigslist for $80. I just fabbed some stainless steel arms to mount the thing since my custom Road King/Street Glide headlight debacle doesn't have a kit, nor was I interested in spending another $100 for mounting even if they did.
#273
#274
Thanks man.
That bikes' running RICH now, and I'm going to find exact spark placement before I hit the road. I've got a dial back timing light, and the little acrylic plug for the timing hole and for the life of me I can't see anything on the flywheel! Granted that S&S crank has some really shallow markings indicating timing positions, but still. I even drilled a shallow 1/8" hole at TDC front cylinder so there's an OBVIOUS mark and even turning that dial on the timing light I can't see ****!
I bought something called EZ-TYME, which is this:
I'll put a TDC mark on the rotor, then I just use the primary inspection window for all my timing needs.
I also will test the VOES to make sure it's damn working... I may even ground it for timing purposes since it may be hopping over the line at odd times throwing the spark off.
That bikes' running RICH now, and I'm going to find exact spark placement before I hit the road. I've got a dial back timing light, and the little acrylic plug for the timing hole and for the life of me I can't see anything on the flywheel! Granted that S&S crank has some really shallow markings indicating timing positions, but still. I even drilled a shallow 1/8" hole at TDC front cylinder so there's an OBVIOUS mark and even turning that dial on the timing light I can't see ****!
I bought something called EZ-TYME, which is this:
I'll put a TDC mark on the rotor, then I just use the primary inspection window for all my timing needs.
I also will test the VOES to make sure it's damn working... I may even ground it for timing purposes since it may be hopping over the line at odd times throwing the spark off.
#275
Haven't updated this for a bit. Had a bit of a timing debacle last weekend but that's sorted out. Timing dead nuts 28 degrees full advance, triple checked!
Last carb settings were:
200 main
96 needle, 4th clip (2nd from bottom) w/ factory nylon washer
Y8 needle jet
30 pilot
1 turn out
Results were VERY rich. Never went over 11.2:1 AFR.
Today going to try:
200 main
96 needle, 4th clip (2nd from bottom) w/ factory nylon washer under clip
Y6 needle jet (one leaner than Y8)
30 pilot
2 turns out (a little more air at idle)
If I do anything I may have to lower the needle one clip. That's a bitch tho, you have to remove the tank for it (or remove the carb). Can't really do that roadside.
Last carb settings were:
200 main
96 needle, 4th clip (2nd from bottom) w/ factory nylon washer
Y8 needle jet
30 pilot
1 turn out
Results were VERY rich. Never went over 11.2:1 AFR.
Today going to try:
200 main
96 needle, 4th clip (2nd from bottom) w/ factory nylon washer under clip
Y6 needle jet (one leaner than Y8)
30 pilot
2 turns out (a little more air at idle)
If I do anything I may have to lower the needle one clip. That's a bitch tho, you have to remove the tank for it (or remove the carb). Can't really do that roadside.
#276
#277
Haven't updated this for a bit. Had a bit of a timing debacle last weekend but that's sorted out. Timing dead nuts 28 degrees full advance, triple checked!
Last carb settings were:
200 main
96 needle, 4th clip (2nd from bottom) w/ factory nylon washer
Y8 needle jet
30 pilot
1 turn out
Results were VERY rich. Never went over 11.2:1 AFR.
Today going to try:
200 main
96 needle, 4th clip (2nd from bottom) w/ factory nylon washer under clip
Y6 needle jet (one leaner than Y8)
30 pilot
2 turns out (a little more air at idle)
If I do anything I may have to lower the needle one clip. That's a bitch tho, you have to remove the tank for it (or remove the carb). Can't really do that roadside.
Last carb settings were:
200 main
96 needle, 4th clip (2nd from bottom) w/ factory nylon washer
Y8 needle jet
30 pilot
1 turn out
Results were VERY rich. Never went over 11.2:1 AFR.
Today going to try:
200 main
96 needle, 4th clip (2nd from bottom) w/ factory nylon washer under clip
Y6 needle jet (one leaner than Y8)
30 pilot
2 turns out (a little more air at idle)
If I do anything I may have to lower the needle one clip. That's a bitch tho, you have to remove the tank for it (or remove the carb). Can't really do that roadside.
#278
Oh HERE we go.....
Still way rich, and I think them cheap-*** lifters I bought in a hurry to get the bike back together are causing an intermittent tap/knock sound. Seriously, it would fade in and fade out, regardless of RPM or speed. OR, my blow up from before clogged the high pressure line to the lifters.
And my clutch was slipping. I will say, I LOVE that Energy One extra plate clutch with the 15% heavier spring. SOOOOOO smooth. You pull in the clutch in gear and it's like pushing in neutral. ZERO drag. I also switched to ATF. I just adjusted the cable too snug so it slipped when I'd gas it a little.
I'm gonna go with the 27.5 pilot and back to the 98 needle at the 4th clip, then try again. So far I'm sure I'm over 50 miles for the build so I may change out the initial break-in oil while it's hot.
Still way rich, and I think them cheap-*** lifters I bought in a hurry to get the bike back together are causing an intermittent tap/knock sound. Seriously, it would fade in and fade out, regardless of RPM or speed. OR, my blow up from before clogged the high pressure line to the lifters.
And my clutch was slipping. I will say, I LOVE that Energy One extra plate clutch with the 15% heavier spring. SOOOOOO smooth. You pull in the clutch in gear and it's like pushing in neutral. ZERO drag. I also switched to ATF. I just adjusted the cable too snug so it slipped when I'd gas it a little.
I'm gonna go with the 27.5 pilot and back to the 98 needle at the 4th clip, then try again. So far I'm sure I'm over 50 miles for the build so I may change out the initial break-in oil while it's hot.
Last edited by Mattbastard; 05-05-2018 at 03:36 PM.
#279
#280
Better, but that damn clutch kept slipping on heavy throttle so I cut it short. Got home, hot engine, pulled Derby cover, broke 11/16" nut loose and WTF the inner bolt was already tight?!?!? Who's the jackass that adjusted it when they changed the clutch???
I'll try again after I go shopping. Wagyu Beef Stir Fry for dinner. We live close to a Korean grocery store where they got all that ****.
I'll try again after I go shopping. Wagyu Beef Stir Fry for dinner. We live close to a Korean grocery store where they got all that ****.