what is the timing degree guys for evo 1998

 

One size does Not fit all.. start with... is it Bone Stock??

Starting point...Stock
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/i..._timing_00.htm

 

You must not have a Factory Service Manual...I suggest you get one for your bike.

Time it to the 2 dots on the crank.

 

no i dont have it because i just finish to build the motor but i found one on internet i time it at 35 degree 2500 rpm run perfect idle too but i post another question i think my cold compression is a bit low 130 psi ??

 

IIRC the book calls for 90 psi at a minimum.
The key to compression checks is that both cylinders should be within 10% of each other.

BTW any manual you find online isn't a FSM.
Get yourself a FSM...it's the best source for information there is.

 

with the gas today you might want to move the dots to the front of the hole to retard it some as the speed of fuel / combustion burn is different today with that static compression it will ping at hi speed and you wont hear it

 

I never understood this... many feel this way... Not me.. I like it close... but... if one is More powerful... should I reduce the better one???
Nah... I subscribe to the "Twingle" theory on the Common Crank pin H-D..
More is More.. I'll Take it..
But, I may have learned a couple bad habits at the Race Track....

 

Man your mind works is strange ways!!!

The 10% is a tolerance that if exceeded means you have to rebuild the motor.
I have yet to meet anyone who (while rebuilding) reduced power in their motor.

 

I did 6 this year tex - panheads and knuckleheads in original trim require the low compression ( 7 1/2 to 1) they came with if its going to be totally original look for moves from the 50s that has police bikes and watch when the cop kicks it over


not everyone rides newer bikes

 

I was referring to people building their own bikes.
From what you're saying you're building movie props.

As for "not everyone rides newer bikes" how old does a bike have to be to be considered not a newer bike?