Pop the heads & barrels and see what shape the rods are in, that will tell you where this is going more than anything.Depending on your state laws sometimes dicking with numbers and a title change for a crate motor isn't worth the dance they put you through.

 

Do that.

Pull the compensator and the cam, too. See if you can rotate the crank smoothly from the small ends of the rods.

 

I just got off the phone with Hillside Cycles. They can do a complete rebuild on my motor for $4k (that's if the whole thing is toast). Not only slightly cheaper than a crate motor, they will use S&S components as needed so it will be better than stock. Considering the amount of metal I've found, I think it's a no brainer for the rebuild. They can so whatever needs to be done and I'll get a fresh engine with the same number. In the meantime, I can clean all my oil lines and the oil pan.

Excellent suggestion to check the bottom end. I would not have thought of that. Also appreciate the comments on the crate motor. I'll pull my motor and post up more progress. I have a few other areas I'm going to look into while I'm waiting.

carl

 

Think 89"

 

Don't everybody throw your beer cans at me but I'm going back bone stock. I'm still running fuel injection and without some sort of aftermarket gizmo, it won't like hairy mods. I just want reliability for this bike. If I want go fast, I've got an ironhead with P cams that is pretty lively.

carl

 

I'm conflicted on that question.

On the one hand, the great thing about the simple, traditional HD v-twin design is it's perpetual rebuildability. They were made for that. Their appeal is partly because they harken back to an era where "throw it out and get a new one" wasn't how things were done.

On the other hand, S&S has these amazing crate motors at amazing prices that are truly compelling.

FWIW, if I was in your situation I'd probably go with Scott. As good as the S&S motors are, there's nothing like a motor that's lovingly assembled by hand by a master.

Nothing wrong with that!

 

Good Plan

 

I vote for letting Scott rebuild it, and convert to a carburetor, and a mild cam.

 

So I'm jamming along pulling parts off and trying to keep it neat. The exhaust was not fun. Had a hard time pulling the last two pieces apart so I could clear the engine. Got it eventually. Had a knock down drag out fight with 1 of the intake screws. 3 were not more than snug. The last one was so tight I busted a ball end driver off in it. Too forever to get that broken ball out. Ended up grinding it out with a dremel.

Anyway, I got to thinking; once I get everything taken off, how do I get the motor out of the frame? Do I use an engine hoist and a strap? I don't know if I could take it out by hand. I've already had a hernia. Looking for suggestions/procedures/pics/what have you.

carl

 

How much is everything??
If you take the heads and jugs off in the frame the cases are pretty light in comparison.
You should be able to easily lift it out of the frame.