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Burning Oil looking for thoughts.

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  #11  
Old 06-19-2018, 04:51 AM
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It means they didn't even spun it around by hand one rev when they got it back together again... after doing all that.

I would get my money back and never return there again. These guys are plain dangerous.
 

Last edited by Daedalus; 06-19-2018 at 06:16 AM.
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  #12  
Old 06-19-2018, 06:18 AM
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Don't think I would be using that shop again. Obviously no one checked clearances....

Anyways to fit those valves into those heads you need to really open up the combustion chamber which would decrease your compression. Curious as to what the compression ratio is with flat top pistons... When I went to over sized valves in my heads which opened my combustion chambers to 94.6 cc, the only piston available was the Axtell 30* angle tops to keep me in the 10-8:1 range... I know that W9B with a 50 IVC loves 10.9-11.1:1. Had to mill my angle tops to get me there.

Good luck with that shop.... will be following this one....
 
  #13  
Old 06-19-2018, 06:20 AM
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One more question how far did you bring the rpm's up when you first took your bike out? I'm sure with a fresh build like that you couldn't wait to check it out....
 
  #14  
Old 06-19-2018, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Mcdrty
Axtell cylinders and 3-13/16 JE Pistons.

Originally Posted by Tommy C
It appears the shop neglected to "check all clearances".
If you are using Axtell cast iron cylinders...piston to wall clearance, and ring gap will be quite different than stock cylinders.
 
  #15  
Old 06-23-2018, 01:24 AM
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Actually beings this is my third set of Pistons since April i took it easy. Did some highway riding being sure to fluctuate the RPMs between 2500 and 3200. Not going above 3200 till after i had put about 100 miles on. Even after that only exceeded 3200 in quick bursts when accelerating to get up to speed.
I've spoke to shop. They claim they did a top notch install checking everything. Said a stud must have pulled out of case. I have reassembled the bike to verify headbolts torque. Guess what, they are torqued to 40 ft lbs.
So question what could be causing me to burn up pistons?
What's my best option at this point?
. Bore Cast Iron Cylinders again to 3-13/16 +.060 which puts me as far as i can go and the cylinder walls will be very thin. Part out motor and buy something used. I'm torn, i do ride this bike daily. The current setup from what I'm told isn't meant for a daily commuter. But damn do i love the power. Would like to hear some opinions?
 
  #16  
Old 06-23-2018, 03:00 AM
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Did ya read post 6?
 
  #17  
Old 06-23-2018, 04:10 AM
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What does braking in a set barrels and pistons or ring orientation have to do with a valve knocking a piston to jello? Sry to say, but this thing is a mess. 1.5 qrts of oil in 120 miles. Oil pouring from every hole in the engine. Loose head bolts. Missing peaces from pistons...

By this time, if I was riding a bike on a daily basis, I would kill for a reliable stock engine doing its job, put together by yourself, or someone else you can trust.
 
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  #18  
Old 06-23-2018, 04:38 AM
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Well to answer questions from #6. Rings were not upside down, valve seals are good. As far as the rest they say they did. They are claiming a stud bolt pulled out so no warranty They cant be for sure until i get bike to them. Unfortunately im 3 hours away with no way to get it there.
Thats kind of where im at as far as throwing a stock motor in it. Trying to sell the heads, carb, cam, rocker boxes and roller rockers. Hoping if i sell all ill have enough to pick up a good used one.
 
  #19  
Old 06-23-2018, 08:23 AM
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As I remember -
Axtell directions -break-in, run,- for 30 seconds and shut off-complete cooldown.
Run for a one minute, do the complete cooldown. Etc etc etc
they are very specific about it.
Their procedure outline why and for how long.
 
  #20  
Old 06-25-2018, 06:55 AM
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In your first pic, did the spark pug hit the piston as well or is that an indication of detonation. Hard to tell...
 


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