I am in the process of updating my wheels on my 1990 Electra Glide to ones off a 2002. I understand they are made for bikes with a 1" axles! I have 3/4 sealed bearings (9267) to put in them. My questions are about the spacers inside and outside the hubs. The spacer for my 1990 wheels is 4.308 inches in length the spacer in the 2002 wheels are 4.810 inches. Can I use the spacers out of my old wheels or would I need to get spacers in 3/4 that are 4.810 in length? I still use the front wheel speedometer drive! Will the old outer spacers work or will the wheels have to be re-spaced again to make it straight.

 

You will need the inner spacer for the 2002 wheel. As for the outer's what I did was mock up the rear with washer's and then measured what I needed and then bought new ones. You will also need a new pulley because the hub on the 2002 wheel is larger. ID on the 2002 pulley is 2.2" where the 90 is 2.0". Harley axles didn't go to 1" till 2007

 

Touring bikes went to 1" on the front wheel in 2000.

You would be better off to use adapters to go to 3/4"...then you can use the original inner spacer....the speedo drive will take a little work

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Beari...4383.l4275.c10

 

There is more to this conversion than you have mentioned! The later wheels will not take your rotors or rear pulley and your rear caliper will not work with a later spec rear rotor. IIRC your stock rear rotor has a different screw pattern to the later hub. Several of us in here have done similar upgrades, in my 1990 I have swapped to a later swingarm and fork sliders, to include Brembo calipers both ends, also a Deuce rear and SG front wheels, both with 1" axles. I'm not sure any of us have done things the same way, so there are many ways to skin this cat!

This thread by HGM deals with the speedo drive, from post #5 and this is a related thread by rizzo, both jolly fine chaps! There are others around HDF on this conversion.

 

or you can use the 30$ adapter kit worked perfect on my eglide

 

Is the reason they went to one inch was to just use the cheaper sealed bearing?
I am not sure when they introed that.

 

Where can I get the kit?

 

They started around 2000. IMHO they used sealed ball-races to reduce assembly costs, which is where the greatest savings could be made. Getting end float right with tapered bearings means routinely assembling, then stripping and rebuilding with the correct shims. I'm not sure there was any conscious effort to reduce costs with the bearings themselves - that seems more like a ****-up in selecting a bad supplier!

 

Shims 3/4. To .25 mm or 1 inch

 

It would seem to em staying with the taper bearings is a much outcome