Clutch push rod 89fxstc
#1
Clutch push rod 89fxstc
I'm thinking this top part should be 3 pieces? adjuster screw, left side push rod end, and push rod?
this piece was welded together. I found the bearing in pieces and the one thrust washer welded on the ride side end piece also.
so after about a 25 miles ride, I lose my clutch (as in when I try to pull away from the stop sign, I immediately stall. Holding clutch all the way still wasn't working the clutch.
so I take both cases off and find my thrust bearing and washers in pieces and my pushrod welded together. While I'm trying to figure out what is what. I see a lot of options for the one push rod side to already have threads for the clutch adjuster, now my sm should the pushrod is 3 parts, and the clutch adjuster screw is separate. However when I went to the clutch side, it was one piece. did it weld together? is this an aftermarket piece? pics attached.
#2
Mine failed the same way, and one of the thrust washers friction welded to the shaft, just like yours.
You should replace the whole business. Get the upgraded bearing with the umbrella filinger.
It's been a while since I replaced mine, but if I remember right, I got everything from my MoCo dealer.
You should replace the whole business. Get the upgraded bearing with the umbrella filinger.
It's been a while since I replaced mine, but if I remember right, I got everything from my MoCo dealer.
Last edited by 0maha; 08-13-2018 at 05:59 PM.
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But if Omaha says the later model throwout bearing setup will fit, then it will fit...
OP: Make sure you have the clutch and cable adjusted properly, if there is not enough play in the system, the throwout bearing will get fried.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 08-19-2018 at 09:15 AM.
#7
I was wrong before. I didn't buy these parts from the MoCo. I got them through Drag, and they are Eastern Motorcycle Parts brand.
V-Twin lists this umbrella flinger as compatible with your '89. (But I highly suspect the flingers for sale out there are all the same.)
The only thing that really matters on this is the total length of the system: Right side throwout bearing holder + main pushrod + left side adjuster piece have to add up to the correct length so that your adjuster piece lands on the clutch side within it's range of adjustment.
(BTW, that gets to a gripe I have with the way vendors put out their catalogs. I wish that in addition to describing parts by model year, they gave physical dimensions as well. Ran into that a bunch on my bobber build. Don't tell me it fits this year or that, tell me how long the ****ing thing is. PITA)
OP: Make sure you have the clutch and cable adjusted properly, if there is not enough play in the system, the throwout bearing will get fried.
The objective of the adjustment procedure is to ensure that there is at least enough clearance on the pushrod system so that it has no pre-load after it comes up to operating temperature. Looking at the original pics, the adjustment on that was way too tight, and for a long time. That's how I killed mine. Some previous owner had put low-angle ramps in the ball and ramp setup, and I needed to run it tight to get the clutch to release. I ended up with new ramps and all new pushrod assembly components, and it's worked fine ever since.
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Careful it's not too tight you'll burn up the throwout bearing.... I have found that the 18 degree ramps in the stock trannies don't give you truly enough Separation on the clutch. If you can get yourself a 21-degree ramp and throw that in there it should make a difference... I actually switched out the ***** in my ramp which were 3/8” and found some 10 mm ***** on eBay and put them in and I'm now getting .084" travel at my clutch plate.. it's a real cheap fix...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 08-31-2018 at 03:20 PM.
#10
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If you need a cable get Barnett!!!!
Way better quality control, materials, and workmanship than a cable made in China!!!!!
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