1998 Electra glide Magneti Marelli no power after ide
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1998 Electra glide Magneti Marelli no power after ide
I’ve had my fathers 98 Electra glide that I inherited after his passing in the shop for four months now. I had the intire front end and rear end rebuilt top to bottom cost me an arm and a leg. Lol the bike has 99,000 on the clock. My mechanic hasn’t been able to do a complete test ride for all the suspension work since the bike isn’t running right, when I brought the bike there in early spring it did feel sluggish. The bike idles perfect but after that it runs like **** no power, he has done compression test, leak down test , replaced the coil, fuel line and everything ckecks out fine, he did get a code for a bad rear injector which are no longer available to buy and the system was pretty gummed up ( he’s going to clean the injector and fuel system )he said the fuel pump was putting out 48psi other than replacing the fuel filter and pump does anyone have any thoughts on what it could be. It’s killing me that I’ve spent all this money and lost the intire riding season. Thanks Bryce.
Last edited by Bryce05; 10-08-2018 at 03:31 PM.
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I think most of the answer to your situation is in your post. You have a code for a clogged fuel injector. So you either replace or clean that injector and definitely clean the front one too. I would open up the fuel tank, replace the filter, and also the fuel pump. (Ok it works but it's 20 years old and they are pretty cheap). While he's in there cleaning, he can check all the internal fuel lines for clogs. The crossover tube in my road king was clogged with some sort of sticky rubber.
I have yet to find anything on my bike that can't be purchased but I've never tried to buy a fuel injector. I would get a parts manual, look up the p/n, and google it. Ronnie's HD has had everything I ever needed for my bike. If worst comes to worst, call HD corporate and they will try to locate one at a dealership for you. Your local dealer can do the same thing, if they're willing. Some may suggest you just buy a new bike.
So after all this work is done on the fuel system, see how the bike runs. If it runs great, you're golden. If it still runs bad, I would check the throttle position sensor to make sure it is adjusted correctly. Not hard to do. There is a video out there to do it. There is also a video on how to replace the fuel filter and pump if you want to do it yourself.
Keep us posted on your progress.
carl
I have yet to find anything on my bike that can't be purchased but I've never tried to buy a fuel injector. I would get a parts manual, look up the p/n, and google it. Ronnie's HD has had everything I ever needed for my bike. If worst comes to worst, call HD corporate and they will try to locate one at a dealership for you. Your local dealer can do the same thing, if they're willing. Some may suggest you just buy a new bike.
So after all this work is done on the fuel system, see how the bike runs. If it runs great, you're golden. If it still runs bad, I would check the throttle position sensor to make sure it is adjusted correctly. Not hard to do. There is a video out there to do it. There is also a video on how to replace the fuel filter and pump if you want to do it yourself.
Keep us posted on your progress.
carl
#5
cargrover gives good tips. First thing I always check on an M&M bike is the battery, cables, and their connections. Peel back a bit of the insulator on the cables to see that they are not corroding from within. Don't forget to properly protect them after you inspected them if they are good. You've got good fuel pressure, but you don't know what is happening to that under load. Definitely replace the fuel pump and filter. You may want to try swapping the injectors positions, and see if the front starts throwing a code. If it does, fix that first. It may also be the pigtail, and not the injector. In that case the rear would still be throwing a code. If you can't find a new injector there is probably a good used one floating around out there. I would replace them in pairs. Try Pinwall Cycles on ebay. Carefully inspect the TPS to see if it is cracked. Other than that you can check the TPS setting, but I would try to eliminate everything else before I started adjusting the TPs or idle settings. This link will help here:
About the only recall by the MoCo on the '98's were the ignition switch. I would check to see if yours was replaced. It probably was. Call the MoCo with the vin. They can help you there. Check the Cam position sensor in the nosecone. If the rivets were replaced by screws it was probably already done. Also check the Crank Position Sensor connector located behind the Right side cover. It is the barrel shaped connector. These will come lose over time. The connection gets dirty, and creates gremlins. Inspect it. Clean it. Connect it back together, and cross zip tie it so it will not come loose. While you are in there look to see if a tuner was added on. If it was take it out of line and see if the bike runs better. Also check the ECM connections. Make sure they are clean, no pins are bent, and the rubber boot is over the top to keep moisture out.
The 1998 FLH/T service manual has flow charts in there that can help chase down issues. If you don't have it I would suggest you pick up a copy.
About the only recall by the MoCo on the '98's were the ignition switch. I would check to see if yours was replaced. It probably was. Call the MoCo with the vin. They can help you there. Check the Cam position sensor in the nosecone. If the rivets were replaced by screws it was probably already done. Also check the Crank Position Sensor connector located behind the Right side cover. It is the barrel shaped connector. These will come lose over time. The connection gets dirty, and creates gremlins. Inspect it. Clean it. Connect it back together, and cross zip tie it so it will not come loose. While you are in there look to see if a tuner was added on. If it was take it out of line and see if the bike runs better. Also check the ECM connections. Make sure they are clean, no pins are bent, and the rubber boot is over the top to keep moisture out.
The 1998 FLH/T service manual has flow charts in there that can help chase down issues. If you don't have it I would suggest you pick up a copy.
Last edited by larsfum; 10-09-2018 at 02:59 PM.
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