Bad crankshaft
#1
10-14-2018, 07:42 PM
Bad crankshaft
94 FLHTCU Bearings are going out on my crank. Haven't tore into it yet to see which one, but it's starting to make some nasty noise. Sort of a grind and knock at the same time with it idling. 108k miles on the bike. Should I be looking at a new crankshaft like S&S or is my money well spent just to have this one rebuilt?
Last edited by SteddyTeddy; 10-14-2018 at 07:55 PM.
#2
10-14-2018, 07:50 PM
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
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TwiZted Biker (10-15-2018)
#4
10-14-2018, 08:12 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#5
10-15-2018, 07:23 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
once they do this you are on a mission to find all the hi carbon steal grains that are floating in the oiling system
every hose - oil coolers - oil pump - lifters - plastic breather has ripped the engine blocks hole but It can be bored .030 - bushings in the cam cover and rocker arms - valve guides and or the valves then selves - have become inundated with damaging metal fragments -- this is not a maybe it has - its can you really wash the entire piece well enough to remove every possible tiny piece - all the above go in the garbage in my shop
if you chose not to do some or any - put money aside for the do over - every single piece has to be inspected cleaned and re fit to the engine correctly
it is cheaper to just buy a complete crank assembly all ready done to install - then re do the heads and jugs
every hose - oil coolers - oil pump - lifters - plastic breather has ripped the engine blocks hole but It can be bored .030 - bushings in the cam cover and rocker arms - valve guides and or the valves then selves - have become inundated with damaging metal fragments -- this is not a maybe it has - its can you really wash the entire piece well enough to remove every possible tiny piece - all the above go in the garbage in my shop
if you chose not to do some or any - put money aside for the do over - every single piece has to be inspected cleaned and re fit to the engine correctly
it is cheaper to just buy a complete crank assembly all ready done to install - then re do the heads and jugs
#6
10-15-2018, 07:35 AM
Club Member
89" will give you stock longevity and reliability, what it does is give the bike more grunt where you need it like 2 up and in the hills, it'll really shine. Best thing I ever did for my old shovel was take her out to 88", ran with all the hot rod evo's and out pulled them in the hills.
#7
10-15-2018, 08:08 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
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#8
10-15-2018, 08:31 AM
I redid the top end about 12k miles ago and the entire primary was off and resealed about 6k ago. Not a newbee to turning wrenches. Any problems I can always turn to my dad. He was a motorcycle mechanic for many years and even Harley trained. He can rebuild the crank if I decide to go that route but If a new aftermarket is stronger and smoother I'd rather go that way. I see the S&S stroker crank uses stock bore jugs. I would just need new pistons and hone the cylinders. Maybe its worth a call to Cycle Rama in St Pete, FL. He's known for building Harley engines and bored my cylinders when the top end was done.
Last edited by SteddyTeddy; 10-15-2018 at 08:37 AM.
#9
10-15-2018, 02:00 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
My $0.02: If you are of a mind to keep the motor original, I'd rather have an expertly balanced and trued stock crankshaft than any aftermarket crank, along with carefully balanced and trued rods and precision fit bearings all around. If your St. Pete guy can do that sort of work, it might be worth a look.
Does your dad have access to a complete machine shop?
Back to your question ("Should I be looking at a new crankshaft like S&S or is my money well spent just to have this one rebuilt?), you're going to have to start by getting the cases apart and seeing what's what. No way to know how much trouble you're in until you get a look. From there, assuming things aren't torn up too badly, like I said I'd lean toward rebuilding. As you go through this, I'd also keep in mind the price on an S&S V111.
Does your dad have access to a complete machine shop?
Back to your question ("Should I be looking at a new crankshaft like S&S or is my money well spent just to have this one rebuilt?), you're going to have to start by getting the cases apart and seeing what's what. No way to know how much trouble you're in until you get a look. From there, assuming things aren't torn up too badly, like I said I'd lean toward rebuilding. As you go through this, I'd also keep in mind the price on an S&S V111.
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SteddyTeddy (10-15-2018)
#10
10-16-2018, 05:18 AM
Club Member
The main bearings are easily replaced, whereas the big rod bearings can be honed and rebuilt with larger rollers, as long as they haven't suffered too much wear or damage. Some years ago I had my 1990 Glide stroked, using the original rods and honed bearings. I was interested to discover that from new they often go slightly out of round, as indeed mine had, however once honed and rebuilt that engine was remarkably smooth. IIRC it was rebuilt with JIMS stroker flywheels.
It sounds as if you are in for a ground-up rebuild, so don't cut corners! Is an S&S crank wortwhile? I have no idea, but I now have one, tucked away inside my S&S 107" engine! It's worth comparing costs before you start spending money. Someone like Hillside can rebuild your engine to 80", but with a worthwhile boost in performance.
It sounds as if you are in for a ground-up rebuild, so don't cut corners! Is an S&S crank wortwhile? I have no idea, but I now have one, tucked away inside my S&S 107" engine! It's worth comparing costs before you start spending money. Someone like Hillside can rebuild your engine to 80", but with a worthwhile boost in performance.
Last edited by grbrown; 10-16-2018 at 05:19 AM.