That's not that aggressive of a cam. What's the preload on the lifters?
The S&S quickie pushrods call for 24 flats on this bike from zero lash. Here's from the instructions...
•• S&S adjustable pushrods have a thread pitch of 32 threads
per inch. This means that one complete turn equals .031" of change in
pushrod length and one flat is .005".
•• S&S hydraulic lifters have .200" of hydraulic plunger travel.
•• When adjusting pushrods, the plunger should be moved near
the center of its travel. This would be 4 turns or 24 flats which is equal
to .125".
7. Holding pushrod so the top ball end is in the rocker arm cup,
extend adjusting screw until the bottom ball end just contacts the
tappet cup. Compress hydraulic unit in exhaust lifter an additional
4 complete turns (24 flats) and tighten locknut. Allow sufficient
time for lifter to bleed down (20 to 30 minutes) before adjusting
intake pushrod. Pushrods must spin freely with fingers.
8. Repeat above procedures for rear cylinder, this time bringing rear
cylinder to TDCC (top dead center compression).
I'm going to head out and test drive it. Maybe it just needs the oil a little warmer than just idling to pump up the lifters, afterall it's been freezing and below the past 2 or three days and nights.
Some times we hear what we want/ expect or worry we might hear. We focus on like zen master and make it appear.
Than one day not thinking about it you hop on and say yeahhh. This iron horse is s beast
I'm going to head out and test drive it. Maybe it just needs the oil a little warmer than just idling to pump up the lifters, afterall it's been freezing and below the past 2 or three days and nights.
^^this^^
Some times they need a few miles on them to shut up.
The lifters quieted somewhat, still noisy but when riding now it's just a little noisier of a sewing machine than it was stock, so I think they'll be okay. As was mentioned, I can always turn one more flat easily enough.
Pulled into the parking lot of Wendy's, figured I'd stop here and get a snack and look at the motor for gas/oil/whatever leaks/problems. Sure enough, had oil sprayed all over the transmission, rear exhaust pipe, rear pushrod tubes, side of the transmission and a few drops on the starter solenoid. Looked to be about a half pint +/- - enough to not miss it even if I'd never seen a motorcycle before and didn't know what I was looking at, heh.
I got to fiddling with the pushrod tubes, thinking because I had to grind the retaining clips so much, maybe they just hadn't seated right still (I *was* working in shitty light and a mini maglight held in my teeth to help check these things as I was putting the bike together, and wearing my reading glasses). I wiggled, jiggled pressed and turned and one seemed to 'pop' into a better place at the spring cup area.
Ate something, came out and idled it 100 feet to the local Tractor Supply store I use for feed, and got a can of brake cleaner to spray off all the oil to help me see where the oil is leaking from if it still was going to.
Got back home, and sure enough, it was oil all over *except for the tube I mentioned that seemed to pop into place. What it looks like, is the rear tubes I bet I put the wrong o-rings in the lifter guide. Looks like the oil this time (and probably the first time I noticed all the oil) is coming from the bottom of the rear tubes. So, tomorrow is supposed to be even warmer than today, I'm going to get my (still) hurtin' *** out there, lift the back end of the bike, get each of the rear tubes on the bottom lobe, remove the pushrods and change/check the o-rings in the lifter guide holes. Now that I'm thinking more about it, I think I did accidentally decide to use the 'flat-ish-like' o-rings in those two tubes to see if those were the correct ones. The kit came with round o-rings and these 4 flat-like o-rings. I believe I was thinking that maybe these were some kind of 'improved' version of the o-rings.
One more thing I noticed...because this cam makes a completely different sound, it's hard for me to just listen and guesstimate the idle speed like I could with the stock cam. I was doing a lot of surging at the shifting speed and staying at the low end of that gear (for instance in first gear around the court square at 12 mph a bit of surging, pretty noticeable. 2nd gear would be like 21 mph, surging, etc. at 15, 25, 25, 45, etc, no or barely noticeable surging). In my opinion, it doesn't sound like a Harley cam in any way whatsoever. It really is a completely different sound that I'm going to have to get used to.
This cam though, *DOES* make a *HUGE* difference in torque!! The throttle is almost *extremely* touchy now. Just the littlest throttle and the bike wants to *go*, lol. With the stock cam, from a stop, I had to give it some throttle to get moving. This cam, it pulls from the get go with no throttle. Once I get the oil leak and idle and air mix set right, gonna get on a 65 mph road and hit it up to 80+ and see how it does.
OH! Another thing...why in the hell is my transmission blowing trannie fluid out the trannie breather hose when I'm idling it and adjusting the idle? I didn't see it til I pulled back in onto my parking spot on the plywood and saw a little puddle of it (it's trannie fluid (85W140 gear oil), it's way thicker than the oil I use for the motor (20W50) and a different color slightly, and was on the left side of the bike and I looked at the back of the primary housing and saw where the oil had built uo just under the exit of the breather hose there).
Sounds like your new cam is much more advanced than the OEM version. Too bad you don’t like the sound, tho eventually, you might get to like it. But in a different way?
Curious to hear what those flat orings look like when you pull them out.
Here's a really bad drawing of the cross section difference between the two o-rings (I did it with my mouse and it's close enough to get the idea across, heh) and some pictures. The circle in the top picture is the cross section of a regular o-ring. Both of the o-rings are the same inner and outer diameter and same thickness.
It's not so much I don't like the sound, it's just different and I have to get used to it. It's hard to explain why that makes it harder for me to just be able to listen to it and be able to tell when it's idling at 950-1000 rpm's...I can do the same with any carbureted Chevy motor I6 or V8, but ask me to tell what a Ford or Dodge is idling at and I'm usually pretty far off, by something like 300 or 400 rpm's. I just have to spend time around this cam is all and it'll settle in soon enough. I'll hook up my timing light that has a tach in it and that'll get me started on the right track.
Where on earth did you get that thing???
I just bought o-rings for a '17 dyna and they looked normal.
I wouldn't reuse that thing I'd get what's supposed to be in there. JMO
Where on earth did you get that thing???
I just bought o-rings for a '17 dyna and they looked normal.
I wouldn't reuse that thing I'd get what's supposed to be in there. JMO
11-16-2018, 11:44 AM
