Top End Gasket Selection
#21
11-09-2018, 01:14 PM
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
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#22
11-09-2018, 03:00 PM
Banned
If you have an objection, dont take the passive aggressive road, tell me what you disagree with.
Perhaps we both will get smarter.
Longer bolts and studs - one can actually measure the stretch.in fact, a lot of FSM will provide a number.
In my exp it is a futility to even bother to try to save a few bucks measuring to see if they are limits.
20 / 30-year-old fasteners just wear out from the constant use, heating cooling etc
It is cheap insurance just to replace them whilst there.
Perhaps we both will get smarter.
Longer bolts and studs - one can actually measure the stretch.in fact, a lot of FSM will provide a number.
In my exp it is a futility to even bother to try to save a few bucks measuring to see if they are limits.
20 / 30-year-old fasteners just wear out from the constant use, heating cooling etc
It is cheap insurance just to replace them whilst there.
#23
11-09-2018, 03:21 PM
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
Posts: 20,999
Likes: 0
Received 4,317 Likes
on
1,946 Posts
If you have an objection, dont take the passive aggressive road, tell me what you disagree with.
Perhaps we both will get smarter.
Longer bolts and studs - one can actually measure the stretch.in fact, a lot of FSM will provide a number.
In my exp it is a futility to even bother to try to save a few bucks measuring to see if they are limits.
20 / 30-year-old fasteners just wear out from the constant use, heating cooling etc
It is cheap insurance just to replace them whilst there.
https://www.amazon.com/bolt-stretch-...tretch%20gauge
Perhaps we both will get smarter.
Longer bolts and studs - one can actually measure the stretch.in fact, a lot of FSM will provide a number.
In my exp it is a futility to even bother to try to save a few bucks measuring to see if they are limits.
20 / 30-year-old fasteners just wear out from the constant use, heating cooling etc
It is cheap insurance just to replace them whilst there.
https://www.amazon.com/bolt-stretch-...tretch%20gauge
I see no reason to go down that road again.
#25
11-09-2018, 03:32 PM
Club Member
#27
11-09-2018, 06:29 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
I've read that if you haven't already updated the crankcase studs, now would be the time to do it. The studs (HD Part number: 16837-85C) were introduced into production on March of 1994. Install them with the shoulder down, towards the crankcase.
Source of the above information: .
Source of the above information: .
#28
11-09-2018, 08:31 PM
Supporter
#29
11-09-2018, 11:00 PM
WOW! This turned nasty in a hurry! To put a stop to this here is my plan based on recommendations and my experience. 1. Cometic MLS gasket set. 2. Replace studs with factory recommended( all of them ) The argument for replace or save is decided from experience building performance automotive engines. Main cap studs and connecting rod bolts are set measuring stretch,not torque. 3. Damaged threads will be helicoiled. I have used them for years with good results. 4. Cylinder bases, deck surfaces,and heads will be sent to true surfaces. 5. I plan to measure cylinder wear and bore if needed or more than likely run a bristle ball hone thru and new rings as no oil consumption has been an issue and no smoking visible. 6.Adjustable pushrods.I have a mild performance cam(Sifton-in the bike when purchased) I don’t remember the number right now. Has stock pushrods-a little noisier than Ilike. I want to do this once correctly even if some is overkill and not have to go back in until far in the future. Keep in mind these choices to do all the steps listed is not because I need to spend money unnecessarily. This is all being done on a retired teacher salary, meaning not much.
I din not intend for this to become adversial but only to find what others have experienced to apply with my experience.
I din not intend for this to become adversial but only to find what others have experienced to apply with my experience.
Last edited by hoakken; 11-09-2018 at 11:51 PM.
#30
11-10-2018, 03:38 AM
My engine only had 37,000 miles on it when I took the the top end off for base gasket leak. I thought just a hone would be fine, but the machine shop wanted to go .010 to make sure I had a "nice straight bore".
His statement was "bore or hone is gonna be about the same price but boring will get it all true". His machine shop is one of the busiest (and not the cheapest either) in the area, and was referred to me by several sources, so I took his experienced opinion.
I went with wiseco 8.5:1 forged and had my cylinders bases shaved .010 off the bottom. Also used the cometic .030 thick head gaskets (base gaskets were .020) thick. Also had the machine shop do a valve job.
Other items done: new cam evl3010 (and shims), cam bearing , Johnson hylift lifters, cometic 68-9850 top end gasket set, new nose cone cam seal (does not come in the top end kit), stock pushrods, S&S cylinder studs, drilled the oil return holes slightly larger in the oil breather/return as well. Also sand blasted and repainted cylinders and heads.
Spent some time evaluating and cleaning those cylinder stud threads in the block. The new studs no longer use interference threads, and they just thread right in with collar down (3/8-16 threads). However, determining condition of the threads is kind of difficult because of the way they look from the previous interference threaded studs. So a bore brush and break clean multiple times in the block stud holes is what I used. I was able to thread the new studs in place with no play or wobble, so determined they were OK and things seem to have worked out so far (no pulling knock on wood).
When I installed the studs, as mentioned, used red loctite with a primer and torqued to 10 ft lbs. Then it's a matter of putting things all back together, and ended up installing the pistons in the cylinders first, then lowering them onto the conn rod and installing the pins and clips. Just cover the piston holes so you don't drop a clip down there...
Just a rough description of what was done to mine, and a suggestion to take notes along the way. YD
His statement was "bore or hone is gonna be about the same price but boring will get it all true". His machine shop is one of the busiest (and not the cheapest either) in the area, and was referred to me by several sources, so I took his experienced opinion.
I went with wiseco 8.5:1 forged and had my cylinders bases shaved .010 off the bottom. Also used the cometic .030 thick head gaskets (base gaskets were .020) thick. Also had the machine shop do a valve job.
Other items done: new cam evl3010 (and shims), cam bearing , Johnson hylift lifters, cometic 68-9850 top end gasket set, new nose cone cam seal (does not come in the top end kit), stock pushrods, S&S cylinder studs, drilled the oil return holes slightly larger in the oil breather/return as well. Also sand blasted and repainted cylinders and heads.
Spent some time evaluating and cleaning those cylinder stud threads in the block. The new studs no longer use interference threads, and they just thread right in with collar down (3/8-16 threads). However, determining condition of the threads is kind of difficult because of the way they look from the previous interference threaded studs. So a bore brush and break clean multiple times in the block stud holes is what I used. I was able to thread the new studs in place with no play or wobble, so determined they were OK and things seem to have worked out so far (no pulling knock on wood).
When I installed the studs, as mentioned, used red loctite with a primer and torqued to 10 ft lbs. Then it's a matter of putting things all back together, and ended up installing the pistons in the cylinders first, then lowering them onto the conn rod and installing the pins and clips. Just cover the piston holes so you don't drop a clip down there...
Just a rough description of what was done to mine, and a suggestion to take notes along the way. YD
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