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  #141  
Old 01-04-2019, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 0maha
On the question of replacing the studs, my thoughts are this: The great advancement for HD with the Evo engine was going to the "through" cylinder stud design. The old style mini-studs (from the Shovel on back) allowed very little stretch because they were so short. The Evo's through studs allow lots more stretch with allows more consistent pressure.

Evo cylinder studs live inside the elastic range of the Grade 9 steel the studs are made from. Cold tension on the studs is about 5,000 pounds. The tension on the studs at operating temperature (the stack grows about 18 thou when it comes up to temp) is about 7,000 pounds. With 3/8" dia studs, that works out to about 64kPSI of tension, which is way below the yield strength of the steel. By staying inside the elastic range of the steel, there is no permanent deformation of the studs, which makes sense. They would pull out of the relatively soft alloy case before they got anywhere near breaking (or even permanently deforming) under tension.

On the question of installing them shoulder end up v. shoulder end down, its just my natural OCD that tells me to put them in shoulder up. Otherwise, I'd end up with five studs (the ones that didn't come out) shoulder up, and three down. That would bug me forever.
That right there is the best reason to do your motor your way.
There's nothing worse than assembling something and having a bug in your ear telling you something ain't right.
You'd never trust that motor or whatever you assembled to last and therefor you'd quit using it as unreliable.

 
  #142  
Old 01-04-2019, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 0maha
On the question of replacing the studs, my thoughts are this: The great advancement for HD with the Evo engine was going to the "through" cylinder stud design. The old style mini-studs (from the Shovel on back) allowed very little stretch because they were so short. The Evo's through studs allow lots more stretch with allows more consistent pressure.

Evo cylinder studs live inside the elastic range of the Grade 9 steel the studs are made from. Cold tension on the studs is about 5,000 pounds. The tension on the studs at operating temperature (the stack grows about 18 thou when it comes up to temp) is about 7,000 pounds. With 3/8" dia studs, that works out to about 64kPSI of tension, which is way below the yield strength of the steel. By staying inside the elastic range of the steel, there is no permanent deformation of the studs, which makes sense. They would pull out of the relatively soft alloy case before they got anywhere near breaking (or even permanently deforming) under tension.

On the question of installing them shoulder end up v. shoulder end down, its just my natural OCD that tells me to put them in shoulder up. Otherwise, I'd end up with five studs (the ones that didn't come out) shoulder up, and three down. That would bug me forever.
The only thing I think you are missing there is the heat cycle factor.
Studs in my world are prone to breakage. (as stated above)
This is a forum and ya gets what ya gets from the populace at large.
I may be wrong for your way of thinking, it is all ok and is good for discussion if nothing else.
I for my part just replace them as a matter of course.
Like I said it is cheap insurance.
Plus I have a very moded engine which is trying to send the top end top the moon with every other stroke.

 
  #143  
Old 01-04-2019, 02:53 PM
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I think Harley is the only ones that install with the shoulder up?? Every japanese bike I've ever been in the shoulder always goes down into the cases as a tread stop. I found them installed both ways when I did the top end on my 94.
 
  #144  
Old 01-04-2019, 04:37 PM
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FWIW … my 1996 Electra Glide and 1996 Road King had the shoulders down and all studs … you have to do what makes you feel confident in the build
 
  #145  
Old 01-04-2019, 06:53 PM
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What is the mfg rated modulus of elasticity for the studs ? How do you know if it has exceeded the Modulus and reached the point of permanent deformation ? If it hasn't exceeded the Modulus wouldn't it return to it's original size (elasticity) ? I'm so confused.
 
  #146  
Old 01-04-2019, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by FreedomRider
FWIW … my 1996 Electra Glide and 1996 Road King had the shoulders down and all studs … you have to do what makes you feel confident in the build
You mean ... just like the FSM calls out?... imagine that


Originally Posted by 0maha
...
On the question of installing them shoulder end up v. shoulder end down, its just my natural OCD that tells me to put them in shoulder up. Otherwise, I'd end up with five studs (the ones that didn't come out) shoulder up, and three down. That would bug me forever. :icon_screwy:
I also could NEVER install those studs with the result being opposing orientations

.
 

Last edited by multihdrdr; 01-04-2019 at 08:22 PM.
  #147  
Old 01-04-2019, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rizzo
What is the mfg rated modulus of elasticity for the studs ? How do you know if it has exceeded the Modulus and reached the point of permanent deformation ? If it hasn't exceeded the Modulus wouldn't it return to it's original size (elasticity) ? I'm so confused.
Shorthand version: Below the yield point, steel acts like a simple spring. Deformation (strain) is a linear function of the force applied. Remove the force and it returns to its original state. Exceed the yield limit and you start getting non-linear deformation (permanent stretch). Eventually you get to the absolute strength limit and it breaks.

Got some headway tonight. Studs are in. Got the cam and the breather in and was ready to test the cam endplay when I discovered that my Cometic gasket kit doesn't include the one for the cam chest. Oops. Stuck for now. Hopefully my dealer can hook me up tomorrow.

Here's a question: The S&S breather came with a selection of variable width shims. How does a guy go about figuring which one to use?
 
  #148  
Old 01-05-2019, 06:53 AM
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You need to mock up the cam cover without gasket and check end play through the rear lifter block.. remember the thickness of you gasket and set it to what the FSM says..
 
  #149  
Old 01-05-2019, 07:21 AM
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So it's the same clearance spec as the stock plastic one?
 
  #150  
Old 01-05-2019, 08:04 AM
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Put the gear in the bore with the shim(s), use a straight edge across the cam chest gasket surface, usually shoot for flush, then the gasket thickness minus .004-,006" is the end play.

Around .005" end play should be good.


 
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