I am partial to the timkin style.
But anyway-
I will have to look at part numbers and see if the new newer swing arms carry a different number.
Nope, same part number.......
I personally know 4 people who had the sealed bearings go bad.
Two of them the bearings ate the hub out too.
That said the replacement bearings from All ***** is supposed to be a much better bearing than the stock one.
Three years ago when i put the Southern Motorcycle works 2000 up rims on, I used the bearings that came with the rims and always wondered how long they might last... Are the All ***** really that good?
Three years ago when i put the Southern Motorcycle works 2000 up rims on, I used the bearings that came with the rims and always wondered how long they might last... Are the All ***** really that good?
They are supposed to be but I have no personal experience with them.
Then again I haven't heard of them failing yet.
I know nothing about batteries. Somewhere or another, I heard about AntiGravity lithium batteries. Super small, which is what I need to fit inside the space on the frame.
Going by measurements, I think the one I want is an AG-1601
It's tiny: 4.5" x 3.12" x 5", so it will fit nicely in the space. Only weighs a smidge over 3 pounds. It is listed at 480 "cranking amps", which is 135 more than the MoCo battery I am pulling out.
BUT, it is also listed at 16 Amp-hours, which is five less than the 21 Ah listed on the MoCo battery.
So, my question is whether or not that will matter. Any ideas? What are Amp-hours, and do I have five of them to spare?
Its basically the capacity of a battery. You can drain 16 amps for 1 hour in the smaller battery. Kinda like how much fuel in a gas tank. More fuel in a bigger tank can go longer being drained out than a smaller one. So itll be a powerful crank at those cranking amps- but itll run out of juice faster. Im eager to see how the new motor starts and runs! Good luck!!
I have a Shorai Li battery, but IIRC John of Mia Cycles bought an Antigravity. Mine is 405CCA, significantly more powerful than a stock Evo Glide battery, but IIRC John bought a 600CCA one - he wouldn't admit to what monster he was trying to start! A stock Evo battery is well below 300CCA, so anything around 300 or so should do the trick. Mine is the same dimensions as a Sportster battery, but being Li is as light as love! Dead easy to pick up with one hand, just be careful you don't throw it over your shoulder, thinking its going to weigh a ton.
So, my question is whether or not that will matter. Any ideas? What are Amp-hours, and do I have five of them to spare?
My understanding of amp-hours is how long your battery will last until it's dead and either needs a recharge or replacement depending on wither or not the battery is rechargeable (which your bike battery is).
Seeing as how you only really use your battery to start your bike the lack of amp-hours isn't a problem.
That said if you have a parasitic drain it will drain the smaller battery faster than it would the larger battery.
One last thing if your charging system goes out the smaller battery won't last as long as the larger one.
Here's a question: Is there trick to removing the starter pinion gear?
Over the last year or so, I've had more and more instances of what I gather is the "dreaded click". Thumb the button, <click>, then eventually it fires off. Some times I release it and it fires right up on the next try.
Anyway, I figure as long as I've got this thing torn down to the bones, I may as well go in and see about the starter.
Started in last night, but the first thing the FSM says to do is remove the pinion gear. Started playing with that, and couldn't think of a way of doing so that isn't awkward as hell.
My idea is to jam up the primary chain, pull the pinion gear out (against the spring tension) and engage it in the clutch ring gear, then use a zip gun to get it loose. Kind of a three-handed operation, but it seems like it should work, right?
Unless someone who's done this before has a better plan.
11-26-2018, 04:01 PM
