I like the O.E. and Have replaced a Very Broken one with O.E. Evidenced by visual inspection as Broken.
There are others... But, Like the "downgrades" to Steel on Steel in the Rear, .... Vibration Increases... especially with the Very Hard ones..
I liked the way the FXR was when New... and Strive to keep it that way... because I like it, and It lasts quite a Long Time
37 Years On My '82... But "only" about 28 -30 Years on the '83...
While I do Not know when the MoCo quit properly Balancing Rubbermounted engines... I suspect that the newer... the more likely to Shake itself apart!!!

I can tell you that a Later Softail [balanced properly] engine in an FXR chassis is really ...exceptionally Smooth...

One symptom of a Bad front mount is significant engine movement... to the point sometimes Parts will hit things like the Frame... in extreme cases..
New Mounts will result in more "felt" vibration for the rider... ie less engine Movement!!!

 

If you have owned your bike from new and not done so yet, I recommend replacing the front and rear rubbers. They are cheap enough! Also replace the cleve blocks in the swingarm bearings with solid replacement bushings. You may be surprised by how improved your 'new' bike rides and handles! That is the best way of discovering the state of such things, as they all perish over time.

 

The Harley upgrade "B" "C" "D" mount didn't pan out, the VRod front mount is the remake of the old factory mount that worked for years. Best thing you can do is use the old mount until it deteriorates, didn't really get anything special with one of those $125 ones either, the oldie but goody design works

 

Get 3 quality laser levels with mags on the bottom and stop guessing

 

OK..I don't have a problem buying laser levels. Got a link or some kind of tutorial for how to use them..??
I'm in a small town in Florida where the only local Indy shop, while they are good "parts swappers", aren't much help on an older hi-mileage bike and of course NO dealer will even look at her.
Thanks.

 

I guess I never used no Laser level either... Only put a Couple FXR's together from Scratch tho... working on another [naked frame just now] so maybe I'll learn something???
Oh... and thanks for the info on the V-rod Mount being same as old style... the one I like...

 

I use lasers- you dont have to
First to keep it all simple and est what you need for parts-
Lock your bike straight up and dwn with a quality level vertical on front disk (a bike lift is good for this operation )
For now just eyeball front and rear tire make sure they are lined up by moving rear end left / right
Now put the other quality level on rear disk vertically.
Jump up and dwn on the suspension a couple times. Is the front still lever ? Make it so-now look at the rear, Tell me what you have.
If they are both NOT reading Zero (level) STOP right there and rebuild the swing arm AS NO AMOUNT OF ALIGNMENT WILL FIX WORN OUT BUSHINGS

 

I use the Husky digital protractor and one craftsman magnetic laser, I get away with using one by drawing a line on the floor when it's on the rear rotor, then switch it to the front rotor, you'll understand what I'm saying after watching the video.
I put the bike on the floor jack, use quarters for shims to level it.

 

This guy is mostly correct, But he is so slow he is killing me