I put everything back together and ranthe bike again - bike was running great aftermy careful inspection of wiring - so i am just rolling along man- all happy and everything - same thing happens again.

So - I limp on back home onone ( 1) cylinder - recharged the battery and ran the wires again.

This time I looked at the Tach Gauze and it is a little irratice- so I am sure it is not undre the gas tank. I drop on down to the low engd of the frame - goose the gas and wiggle the wires - Looks like the wires out of the nose cone were zip tied to the frame with very little play or allowance for movement of the rubbber mounted motor.

Cut the zip tie - gave a little slack for movement.

Tach gauze settle out - bike firing on two ( 2) cylinders and i am going riding again.

I will let you know when I get it hot again - because that is when the problem always pops up.

Stay tuned.

 

I'd opt for the ign mod

 

I agree with sqdealgeorge, if its not a bad wire out of the cone, its heat and vibration building up to your run NO run failure... cause most likely module.

hope you get it figured out, riding is funner than wrenching.........

John

 

OK - You Guys have been around the block a time or two.

Ran the bike about 30 miles - goosed it for about the last 5 miles of that runand as you know - herecomes that same old problem again.

SoI limped about 5 miles to my stop point and play with the wires. No cahnge - still missing- let it cooldown for about half an hour - still missing- so I rodeabout 5 miles to my long stop/ resting spotand set it up for 2 hours in rainy conditions.

Bike fired up and ran excellent on two cylinders all the way home = 47 miles.

Now - you go figure - what ??? ishappening when this bike gets hot

I am goosing it such that wiring is affectedor I amgetting afault due to component failure

R/T heat in coil or nose cone module ???

 

Either or, but I'd put my money on the ign. module - someone somewhere told me about this, they had a points set-up they built up (they did a lot of hellhole traveling and didn't want to be stranded in BF Egypt with w fubarred mod) and it stopped the prob.

Could be the coil. Could also be the EI module - could be getting hot on its own from an internal electric fubar and killing itself softly (I hate fracking computers!) a'la mid 80's GM...

BUt yeah, it's a component that doesn't like getting hot. I'd start with the cheapest (coil?) and work my way down the wallet drain; IMO it's either the coil or cone mod. Toss a coin...

bb

 

Fought the same problem for 6 month's on 95 flh w/Evo. Had Dyna-S single fire with a Crane 3 ohm coil. Everytime I would go to check things out, it would start running right. Always dropped the rear cylinder out, then pick it back up. Would test coil, wiring, pickups, etc. Everything would show good. Finally it died completely, easy to find problem then. Replaced coil, been trouble free for a year. Now as soon as Crane can get the HI4 modules back in production, I'm going to get rid of the Dyna-S and go with the HI4.

 

I will replace coil in Am- give me about 2 days to run the bike

Stay tuned

 

Replaced the coil this AM with a new one - bike ran fine for about 3 hours - then I had a five ( 5 ) minutes episode of the same misssing - finally it stopped and started hittting on both cylinders again. Ithas ran fine/ OK through the past several hours- goosing and all.

I will change the spark plugsnext.


I am still unsureabout the missing.

 

If it missed with the new coil, then the coil ain't it. Sure, the old one may have been weak, but if it were the coil it woulda been fixed and not done it period. Since it returned, you know what it's not. Sorry...

Swap plugs as it's cheap, but I got a bad feeling about the mod. Just hate that damn computer control crap. Price you gotta pay for Electronic Ignition, but still...

Question - have you replaced the plug wires?? Just thinking... Or... do you have those light-up sparkie caps? I've heard those can fark with your ignition on EI bikes... But a bad wire... yeah, cheaper than a module...

bb

bb

 

Plug wires are fairly new - replaced spark plugs last night - put in some platinum I had laying

around the garageInteresting thing I found - book spec for plugtorgue is 18 ft lbs to 26 ft lbs

I torque them in at 12 ftlbs - I do not want to strip the plug holes.

The front plug seemed to have beenlightly torqued about 6 ft lbs - I think because of the

location under tank I have been reluctantto pull on theplug wrench - so I may have been

getting raw air into the front cylinder by way of the spark plug sealing ring when it got hot.

Stay Tuned