I posted this over in the exhaust section but thought I might have better luck over here.
Does anyone know if a set of duals off a 2000 Heritage Softail Classic will fit a 1993 Heritage Softail Classic?

 

If they come with a bracket that attaches them to the frame, you can use them in any of both models. If they attach to the original bracket, you will need to get a twincam bracket to make them fit.

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Javi

 

If you're fitting true dual pipes off the later bike and using slip-on mufflers, you may need later type mufflers, not the earlier flared-ended type. I have just fitted 1995-later true duals to my 1990 bike, with later style slip-ons, to replace my original flared system.

 

One way to find out.....

 

thanks for the info, I'm picking them up this afternoon so we will see.

 

I picked them up &amp\\;\\\\\\; due to being very busy I didn't get around to installing them for several weeks after but here they are. When I got them they were not "true duals" but oh well, for the money ($200) what the heck.
Here is the problem I ran into on the install, the mounting bracket holes for the mufflers&nbsp\\;\\\\\\;on the clutch side of the bike did not exsist, I believe that Harley did not start making the springer softail until 1995? and my bike is a 93 so the 2 threaded holes on the swingarm plate where not there so I drilled and threaded my own.
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I copied this from a post of mine some time ago..........
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OK, I'm posting this as an "edit" as well as a new post to the thread. Not sure how this forum handles everything.
All you need is a piece of 1 1/2 pipe about 4 inches long. Get a coupling from the "fast-food" parts store for about 2.00 and tax, or a piece of scrap from a muffler shop. Using the coupler, you may need to roll it around on the SIDE of a benck grinder wheel to get the high spots out of it. Either way, get it so it'll easily slip into the H pipe (from the muffler end) at least half-way. Then split it long way with a hack saw or thin grinder wheel.
Remove your muffler, clock the sliced area about 90 degrees from the opening in the H pipe and using a hammer and a piece of heavy pipe or big rod, tap it into the H pipe until it covers the area where the rear down pipe intersects. There is enough ragged left from the factory to grip the adapter and not let it move around.
You can use a coathanger with a short L bend to check whether you've covered the opening, or guage the same if you don't want to totally block it off.
Word of caution - after slicing, the adapter should slip rather easily into the main pipe at least to where the downpipe starts into the main. Otherwise, you may have trouble getting it all the way in. If not, work it down on the grinder or make the slice wider. On a new H pipe, I was able to push the last one I made all the way with a D-cell maglite body and after 5000 miles, it hasn't moved. Works great!

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