Ok...so here's the deal. I know everyone talks about the "Evo Rattle" and that it's normal and you just have to deal with it....well, my '97 Road King has rattled TERRIBLY since I picked it up last year, and even though it only has 23,000 miles on it, and seems well taken care of....I can't help but think there is something in the valvetrain that needs serious attention.

Sooo....since I recently bought a new cam cover and rocker boxes (that's another story and picture thread to come), I figured it would be a good chance to replace the lifters and pushrods. I got a sweet deal on some Andrews chrome-moly adjustables, and today was able to talk my stealer into selling me the Harley "B" lifters and an EV27 cam (might as well while I'm in there, right?) at a ridiculously cheap price....and believe me, I never pay more than I would have to on eBay.

So, now I have the cam, lifters, pushrods, new Timken bearing, oil seal, and associated gaskets. What else should I need to pick up? Do I need to replace the breather gear? Bushings? Valve seals?

I also seem to end up with a lot of oil in my air cleaner. Would it be advisable to hone the jugs and re-ring the pistons while I'm in there, or would it be a wast of time/money?

Any help from those who know what they're doing would be appreciated. I'm a good wrench, just don't have alot of Evo experience. Thanks in advance.

 

If it was me, I would put the new stuff on and ride on. I wouldn't worry about a breather gear or valve seals unless you have a problem with them, which it doesn't sound like.

 

I think that cam is much like the one I just had put it my bike (SE3) and is quite happy with .030" taken off the heads. But I can't say I know this as truth. Maybe, someone can chime in with the proper recommendation. Or, just talk to your mechanic at the "stealership." Good luck!

 

No, Evo valve rattle isn't normal. You can expect some valve train "noise" when upgrading a cam, but not a rattle unless you get really radical on the modifications. Mine rattled since 12,000 miles and it took me years and lots of wasted dollars to figure out the problem for taking advice from too many people. Have to get to work and be back Friday, but send me a PM and I'll clue you in.

Always a good idea to freshen-up the top end if you have time and an extra 75.00 ... while you're into it.

 

Changing out the inner cam bearing to the Torrington type is recommended.

 

Make sure that rocker arm end play is within specs. Check the screen to make sure that the top end is getting enough oil as this will cause a rattle. Another thing to think about is the valve seals. When you put a cam in with more lift you push the valve open farther. If there is some varnish built up on the stems it will score the valve seals causing them to leak over time. As previously stated cutting the heads .030"-.060" will wake up the motor even more with the cam you selected. If you have the heads cut you could have the valves and seals freshened up at the same time, foregoing the previously potential problem. Hope this helps.

 

Taking my old bearing out was a son of a bitch .. even with a puller ..
I didnt know there was a lip/stopper on the inside edge of the hole. I ended up breaking the bearing all to hell and chipping it out with a sharp chisel .. The bearing is all cast not tin and man its in there.

 

You've got everything you need. With your mileage, I'd leave the cylinders alone. If your new PRs are truly adjustables, you can just cut out the OEM ones and save you some time. Blind hole puller helps in getting out the old cam bearing. Mark your timing before you take nose cone apart and it will save you some time.

dave

 

I would just cut the old pushrods, but I'm already replacing the rocker boxes anyway.

 

Since you are replacing the rocker boxes, you will be installing new umbrella valves and that will possibly eliminate or reduce the oil in the air cleaner. There are other "fixes" for the oil problem. Ask around at your local indy shop(s).