I've seen the other posts, but now that its time, I'll ask again anyway: Sta Bil in my carbureted 98 Dyna Evo? Doesn't hurt fuel lines or O rings, right? Drain the carb, or turn off fuel while running and run it till it dies? Fogging oil in the cyliders? No problems with Amsoil, right? I'm putting her away in an unheated northern Wisconsin garage where Jan temps will regularly hit -20! Any tips for that?! No, I can't afford a dealers storage prices. I'm planning no lift, just carpet on the cement. God, is it April yet?

 

I use SeaFoam instead of Sta-Bil. It will help clean out carbon and moisture when you start it up again in the spring. I also plug my mufflers with rags to keep the rodents out. I spray WD40 over various engine and exhaust pieces, including inside the mufflers before plugging. I've never put mine on a lift. What you're planning on doing sounds good, not much else you can do unless you put a garage door in your living room wall.

 

Winter, what's that? Seriously though sounds like you have a good plan but also add a battery maintainer if you have power.

 

I agree here, or take the battery out and store indoors.

 

I'm no expert, but just wanted to add a couple of comments based on other things that I have read in the past. First, I was always under the impression that you should NOT drain the carb or run it out of fuel when you have treated the fuel with Sta Bil because the remnants of the fuel that remain in the orifices and passages of the carb could still dry out over the winter and cause starting problems. Just leave the carb full of fuel, the Sta Bil will keep it from going bad or gunking up the carb.

Second, (and maybe this does not apply to synthetic oil, but) change the oil and filter before storing it for the winter. This gets rid of the corrosive acids that may have accumulated in the oil.

Third, after changing the oil and putting Sta Bil in the tank take it out for one last ride and get the motor good and hot. This will evaporate any moisture in the motor, circulate the fresh oil and displace any of the old oil left in the engine and get the stabilized fuel into the carb. Then just before you park it top off the fuel tanks to reduce the amount of air space in the tanks, thus reducing the amount of condensation that can form.

Like I said, these are just things that I have read and I throw them out here for the experts to debate.

 

If you're not using a lift then put an extra 5-10lbs in the tires to minimize flat spots.

 

Someone else told me, too, that I can dry out the diaphram and petcock seals if I run the carb dry. I thought this keeps corrosion away, but I guess, like dremelts said, it will be ok with a stabilizer in the fuel. I dunno, I'm kinda confused now. You know what really bothers me though, is, how do I know how well the previous owner winterized my ride! After all, its a '98, and I just got her this spring! Thanks for all your advice, but it looks like I'll get a little bit more riding time before winterizing, as it's still pretty nice up here, and the leaves are starting to peak!

 

Speaking of winterizing, after a long riding absence, I have started to work on my 98 FXDL. One of the first issue I have noticed is that the seal in the petcock is destroyed. Where can I get a new one? Or do I have to get a whole new petcock?
Thank you in advance

 

I've heard pros and cons for years about draining carbs during storage. What I do, and what has worked for me, is I run the bike until the carb is dry, then I add the sta-bil to the tank and open up the petcock. I let the bike run for awhile letting the sta-bil treated gas to fill the carb. Then I shut the petcock. This works for me. I have a heated garage in the building where I live. Lucky thing since I live in Duluth MN. No place to plug in a battery tender, but instead of pulling the battery (not a big thing, but it's just one of those chores I hate...I always drop a nut into the frame somewhere...) I'm gonna buy a new battery this spring. One less thing to worry about. This '85 FXRS is the first Harley I've ever had without a kick start, either as primary starting method or a back up for the electric leg.

 

Spicy,

Not sure what kind of petcock you are talking about but these kind tend to leak the most. In the link you will see that you have to buy 10 gaskets at a time...
http://www.powersportsnetwork.com/en...ctCategoryCode=

Doug