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Leaking Head Gasket 1995 FLHR

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  #11  
Old 01-04-2011, 04:48 PM
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Yep just the dealer gaskets, they may even have the James base gasket. The rubber rocker gaskets are probably still good but really wouldn't hurt to put new rubber rockers and new push rod tube gaskets, and if the springs look compressed replace them as well. The closest harley dealer is 3 hrs away from my home so your more fortunate.
 
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Old 01-04-2011, 05:33 PM
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Thanks for all the advice.
 
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:10 PM
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Make sure your head gasket has a fire ring in it. If you are pulling both heads, there are good quality gaskets that are slightly thinner. Every lil bit helps to keep your compression up high!
 
  #14  
Old 01-04-2011, 10:04 PM
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Thanks I will.
 
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:48 AM
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Using Cometic gaskets throughout will quite possibly save you headaches down the road.
 
  #16  
Old 01-05-2011, 09:13 AM
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I have had good luck with Cometic gaskets in the past with my dirt bikes. I just ordered a factory service book for my bike to help with the specs.
 
  #17  
Old 01-09-2011, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rivercityslim
Using Cometic gaskets throughout will quite possibly save you headaches down the road.
I had this problem on a 92 I had and also on my 98. One cylinder only needed the rocker box gaskets on each bike,the other 2 needed to remove the rockers,etc to get to the head gaskets. I used a Cometic set,it has the umbrellas and all to get the job done....neither leaked after that. No gas tank removal on either...fairly easy job. oh...rocker box ratchet comes in real handy.
 
  #18  
Old 01-09-2011, 11:33 PM
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I am going to look into the rocker box ratchet. I was wondering how I was going to get the left rear bolt back in. It was so close to my frame I couldn't even get the allen wrench in between the frame.
 
  #19  
Old 01-10-2011, 08:26 AM
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I cut a allen wrench shorter for the allen bolts that had no clearance.
 
  #20  
Old 01-10-2011, 09:57 AM
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If I were doing the J.O.B., I (or when I DO end up doing it),
I invest in a new set of studs.
Those babies are long metal and take a hit from the cyclinder heating-expanding, the torque, (stretching). They have to be a weak link.
it's a cheap add on when you think about it.
If your gonna do it, might as well do it 100%.
Check the base of the cylinder to make sure it flat, (I use a sheet of sandpaper on my table saw, slide it @ and check it, head as well.
I dunno if'n I locktite the studs inplace. I think I'd just add some sealer to the threads to keep oil from seeping out. The studs are torques down and really not gonna go anywhere, but I KNOW I've been wrong before and will be again.

Qucik tip- heat up a bolt or stud to loosen the locktite !
Joe
so many bikes and roads so few $$
 


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