Hey RidemyEVO


Yeah I know I gota check the coloring of the fluid. Its DOT No. 5 I believe
that what I'm suppose to use. If I need too.

Other than that; everything is everything.

Things I need to do to get back on the road (with you guys helping me)

1. Replace Front & Rear Brake Pads.
2. Reattach Rear Calliper To Rotor Disc.
3. Re-assemble All New Two Tone Custom Body Parts Back On Bike.
4. Install New Front Windshield.
5. Install 2 New Mirrors.
6. START THAT BABY AND GET IN THE W I N D

Plus post all new pictures of my remodeled '85 Harley Electra Classic-Yeah!

 

Well done Schooner. Together we can conquer the world!

 

Schooner are you saying you took the line off the rear calliper? If you did be sure to loosen off the bleeder screw on the bench before reattaching. The way I bleed the line is I get a small mason jar and put about a half cup of brake fluid in the jar, get a clear hose that fits snug over the bleeder nipple, attach hose over nipple and submerge into mason jar fluid , fill brake resevoir, sit top back on resevoir and pump 3-5 times on foot brake with right foot and hold , now crack bleeder until you feel pressure release and repeat until foot brake is at its top and you should see nice clean fluid going through clear hose and no air bubbles.

 

Hey Grbrown

Today on my schedule (sounds impressive huh) I got NO SCHEDULE; I'm retired ~ Thank YOU JESUS

Like I said before; today 4/1/'11 I will try to get that rear wheel to have new
brake pads and wrap-up the backend and move on to installing new dual front end brake pads.

Here's how my Harley looks on my back patio at the present time 4/1/'11
Hopefully, it will have lots of NEW STUFF on it.

Onward Christian soldiers.

 

Schooner, those pics do explain why you had problems with that rear wheel! Poor bike is closer to the sky than terra firma!

 

Hey Grbrown

I had to jack the bike up. I didn't think I could've done it any other way.

However, The Deed Is DONE

The axle got a thin film of grease on it and I slip it into the adjuster on left side and thru the hub and I caught the adjester on the other side; right thru the swing arm and BANG ~ IT'S DONE finally

You gota remember guy this was the FIRST time I ever mounted a rear wheel and installed new brake pads.
Boy there were times I wa knocking my head trying to figure out how the heck does that rear wheel go on.

And that's with great guys like yourseld helping me to see the light.

Now on to ADJUSTING THE BELT. I guess that's what those adjusters on either side of the swing arm.

I first have to loosen up the axle nut again YES/NO?
I got too much play in the belt as you can see.

Again, guy(s) any and all suggestions will be greatly appreicated

Pic.#1 EVENLY SPACED AXLE NUT IN SWING ARM.
Pic.#2 How Loose the belt is.
Pic.#3 Use this ratch to tighten-up belt ~ YES/NO ?

Is that the way to go about tightening-up my belt ?

 

OK, first loosen the axel nut.
Then you have to decide if you want to align the rear wheel 100% or just good enough.
To do it good enough, lift your bike, until the rear wheel is free from the ground. (easy ppl, I know the belt most be adjusted with the bike on the ground.)
Adjust the wheel until you can bend the belt 90 degrees. rotate your wheel and look at the pulley behind the primary. Adjust right and left until your belt is running free on bout sides from the front pulley. Lower your bike to the ground. With a person on the saddle, you should be able to turn your belt 45 degrees, loosen right and left screw 1/2 turn at the time (you have to do bout exactly the same turns) until you can twist/turn your belt 45 degrees. Now fasten your wheel axle. Done

If you want it 100 % align, please let me know, it a longer story

 

After having the skill of wheel/tire removal......you might want to consider upgrading to the newer type swingarm in the future. Not too difficult and not too expensive either.

 

Hey Takamine4

Some say that bending the belt will weaken it

I firgure I never bend a rear belt before,so I'll go
with the Belt Tension Gauge

Question(s)

1. If the adjusters on either side are tightened to
axle, shouldn't the Axle nut be in the same position
as it was before I took the rear wheel off and the had the right amount of tension on it

2.I believe when adjusting of 10lbs.pressure to my belt I should have the rear wheel off the ground.
Because the axle can't be drawn back or forward having too much pressure on the adjusting bolts on either side of the swingarm.

I would think the bike should be off the ground when trying to adjust the belt.Due to the fact that; as the tire and weight of the bike on it would not allow both adusting bolts on either side of the swingarm to pull or draw the belt tighter.

O.K. I bought the Belt Tension Gauge.
Now the point is how the heck do I use it

My Belt position now.

1. The axle nut is tightened 60lbs.

2.The axle nut is in the center position is was before
I took the rear wheel off.

3. The belt is too tight with the feel of my hand.

Now how in the world am I going to get that 10lbs.
of tension on my belt

I'm as ALWAYS CONFUSED

If you know by using the belt tension guage please take me step-by-step so I can get into my thick head.

 

Schoonerthis is from a 99 sporty manual
Final Drive Belt
Deflection
Check drive belt deflection at the intervals in Table 1. If
the drive belt is severely worn, or if it is wearing incorrectly,
refer to Chapter Thirteen for inspection and replacement
procedures.
NOTE
Check the drive belt deflection when the belt
is cold.
1. Support the motorcycle on a stand or floor jack with the
rear wheel off the ground. Refer to the Motorcycle Stands
section in Chapter Thirteen.
2. Turn the rear wheel and check the drive belt for its tightest
point. Mark this point. Turn the wheel so the tight spot is
on the lower belt run, midway between the sprockets.
3. Lower the motorcycle to the ground.
4. Position the motorcycle so both wheels are on the
ground without a rider or cargo on the motorcycle.
5. Observe the belt position through the window in the debris
deflector (Figure 43). Mark the position of the belt.
Use a belt tension gauge (A, Figure 44) (part
No. HD-35381-A or equivalent) to apply
pressure against the drive belt in Step 6. A
suitable equivalent is the Yamaha belt tension
tool (B, Figure 44).
NOTE
Be sure the belt tension gauge is positioned so
it applies force squarely against the belt.
6. Apply a force of 10 lb. (4.5 kg) to the middle of the
lower belt strand (Figure 45) and make another mark on the
debris deflector to indicate the position of the deflected
belt.
7. Note the number of graduations between the marks.
Each graduation next to the window equals 1/8 in. (3.2
mm). Calculate the amount of belt deflection and refer to
Table 7 for the correct specification. Adjust the belt as described
in this section.
Adjustment
1. Measure the belt deflection as described in in this section.
2. On the left side, remove the cotter pin (A, Figure 36)
and loosen the rear axle nut (B).
3. Turn the adjuster locknut (C, Figure 36) on each side, in
either direction, an equal number of turns to obtain the correct
drive belt deflection.
CAUTION
The rear wheel must be properly aligned with
the chassis so the drive belt runs true on the
front and rear sprockets. A misaligned rear
wheel will cause uneven, rapid drive belt
wear.
4. Check that the rear axle is positioned correctly within
the swing arm as follows:
a. Using a suitable metal rod, construct the tool shown
in Figure 38.
b. Insert the end of the tool into the index hole in the
swing arm (A, Figure 39).
c. Slide the rubber grommet along the tool until it aligns
with the center of the axle (B, Figure 39).
d. Check alignment on the opposite side, comparing the
rubber grommet position with the center of the axle.
The alignment on both sides of the axle must be the
same. If necessary, adjust the axle with the axle adjusters
(Figure 46), while at the same time maintaining
correct drive belt deflection.
5. Tighten the rear axle nut to 60-65 ft.-lb. (81-88 N•m)
and install a new cotter pin.
6. Recheck the drive belt deflection. Tighten the adjuster
locknuts securely.


As you can see its like checking a primary drive chain, turn belt to tightest spot with bike in air , lower bike and check belt tension to 10 lbs ( if you can twist belt a full 90 degrees its to loose.

When I take my rear wheel off I generally don't touch adjusters, I will just push axle through do what I have to do, put wheel back in position, slide axle back and tighten to torque spec.