Since this is a topic that I'm about to embark on myself.. I was going to ask how to know what bearing I had, but that was answered..

Now the only question that I have is how to test for correct shiming.. I have read that you need to do it, but I've never found any manuals/documentation as to how this is done.. If anyone would please enlighten me.. I'd be REAL happy to listen!

-NFE

 

You need to disassemble one of the lifter blocks to gain access with feeler gauge inboard of camshaft. You need to have cam cover installed and correct torqued with the gasket you will use. I like to have the end play @ .001" to .005". There is cam shims available from .045" to .100" in .005" increments. Your dealer should know that

Get a different shim and as mentioned earlier use a feeler gauge to measure play. But it is important to measure play with the cam cover fully torqued along with the gasket in place. You need to take a lifter block off to access the rear of the shaft.
Harley loosened up the spec in the early 90's, went to .001-.050" as acceptable. This is why you MUST use the proper shim on aftermarket cams. Typical Harley, looking to save a buck. Takes time to get the spec into the .001-.010" range that existed in earlier engines. They went to the INA bearing shortly after.

Cam shim part numbers:
0.050" thick25550-36
0.055" thick25551-36
0.060" thick25552-36
0.065" thick25553-36
0.070" thick25554-36
0.075" thick25555-36, 25555-84
0.080" thick25556-79
0.085" thick25557-79
0.090" thick25558-79 .095" thick25559-79

Hope this helps

 

So, to restate what you just said...

The adjustment is to the in/out movement of the camshaft. This would then keep the camshaft from moving across the engine.. I'm sure I'd figure out where to place the feeler after getting the cam back into the bike.

Thanks for the information on this one.. I just wish I had one of the magnetic gauges that you see on all of the auto shows.. But I'm sure they are ridiclous compared to a set of feeler gauges from Sears!

Thanks again for the information.

One last question that I just thought of.. Do you, in your honest opinion think this is too much for a semi-novice wrench in their garage?

I've done quite a bit of stuff.. Both mechanical and electrical.. So..

-NFE

 

The cam / bearing swap is not rocket science. You should be able to tackle it. Just read up before, and read as you go to make sure you replace all the parts before re-assembling.

The hardest thing I encountered during mine last week was swapping the cam gear from the original cam onto the Andrews cam. After measuring the pitch diameters of the old vs. new gear, I decided it would be safer to reuse the original gear. The new gear was .005" larger on the diameter, and I didn't want to take the chance of experiencing gear whine and end up having to tear into it again to swap it later.

 

That totally makes sense.. I'm sure I can get a local indy to do that for me if need be.. I'm sure it's just having them press the old one off, then the new one on...

I didn't think it was going to be that BAD to do.. Glad that others out there have done it, and I can draw on experience also..

I'm thinking I'm going to tackle it this weekend, and go from there..


Hey mtnlvr... One question for you, I most likely read this before, but did you switch to adj. pushrods?? Or did u re-use the originals?

 

Seems how my rocker box gaskets weren't leaking, I opted to not disassemble them. Its nice to have a few less parts scattered about the shop. I installed the SE EX-install pushrods. They worked slick.

If you end up pressing the gear off the cam, be sure to mark where the keyway is on the lobe side of the gear in order to re-align it correctly on the new cam. I had a 1/4" chunk of key stock laying around that I ground a 45 deg angle on the end of in order to slide it into the keyway and scribe a line on each side of it. If you don't mark it, you're SOL. Make sure the new cam gear is marked also.

When you get to that point, if you don't see what I mean, PM me and I'll take a pic of my old cam and new gear for you.

 

Just had my cam bearing and tappets replaced by a Harley wrench that moon lights out of his garage. He doesn't like adjustable pushrods. Says it's just something else to loosen up and screw things up. He used my original 1-piece push rods. Nothing is leaking out the rocker covers. He said HD changed the rocker cover gaskets to a different material and they don't leak like they use to. I remember reading a post on another board about a guy that has problems with his 2-piece pushrods coming out of adjustment. Says he can fix it on the side of the road in 20-minutes. Sounds like a PIA to me.

 

I finally got the chance to replace my cam..I went with an AndrewsEV13. I can totally notice the difference between the N grindand this one. But it's not quite where I want it yet.. Oh, well.. Good upgrade forthe money...

I would have had the upgrade done in about 2 horus if it weren't for the wife and kidz!!! [:@]

Not to mention that I also bought a gasket replacement kit for the whole right lower side of the engine.. The only 2 I didn't do are the lifter block gaskets.. They aren't leaking, didn't take them apart, so I left'em.. But during the whole inserting the pushrods and such.. I didn't notice that one of the O rings in the upper pushrod area fell out.. ARRRGGGHHHH!!! Had to re-take out the pushrod and such.. That sucked.. But I do like the ADJ pushrods myself.. REAL easy to re-adjust on the road if need be.. But I don't see them coming apart due to the torque I put on that locking nut!!

The only thing that I noticed is that the oil pressure seems to be up on the bike about 5-8lbs... Made sure that all of the gear marks are aligned and such.. I was afraid that I messed something up, so I pulled a pushrod cover, and I'm getting oil in the heads, and the filter is heating; so I hope all is well....

I did take the bike for a nice ride last night.. Ran like a champ, felt GREAT!!!!

Thanks to all for the information about the swapout! It was EASIER than I had imagined!!!

-NFE

P.S. For those of us with a Harbor Freight near us.. They have a GREAT dial micrometer that comes with a vicegrip and an adjustable arm..It retails for $26.. That allowed me to dial in the CAM without dealing with lifter removal and such, and I got it locked in at a great tolarance!

 

Hi Zookeeper,
I have a 96 evo where the cam bearing did take a crap on me with 25000 miles on the motor. I have pulled what remained of the bearing and am in the process of replacing the cam. Fortunately the motor case did not crack so the repair should be relatively easy. The main issue with the bearing seems to be that the bearing race is made of s sub standard material and is a bit soft for the application it is being used for. The bearing got kind of cocked in the hole and caused the problem. The fix for me at least was to clean up the hole with a dremmel and an emory fitting and install the new bearing and cam. The cam was scored and probably could have been used but I decided to replace it. I got lucky as the motor case did not crack so my advice to you is to check and see what the status of your bearing is and decide what to do. I have heard that this is an issue with 95 and 96 Evo's but I am not sure if these are the only years affected.
Hope this helps

 

My 99 has 22,000 with no problems. Seems like some go to 150,000 without trouble. Don't no what the difference is. I think we only hear about the ones that go bad. The later EVO's do have the "B" lifters, which I am told are much better. Mine runs so well stock, ( except for the air cleaner and drag pipes ), I will probably not tear into it until I see stuff in the oil when I change.