That's a good thought and a definite possibility. . .

Only issue with tearing down the transmission is that you need a few $100+ tools to do it. The actual work isn't difficult. I tore my tranny out of the bike and gave it to someone who did it for about $115 USD.

I'm still kicking myself in the butt for not buying the tools and doing it myself. The bike was down for two and a half weeks while the tranny sat on the floor at the HD dealer while they did nothing but give new estimated completion dates. I finally walked off with it and took it to an indy. Then his kid gave him the chicken pox and I didn't get the tranny back from him for a week. Been riding my gf's Sportster for the past three plus weeks.

 

I tore down my tranny with no special tools at all just some creativity. As for parts probably just bearings and seals unless a shifter fork is worn. You can lock the 2 tranny gears together for loosening off the mainshaft sprocket nut and use a steering wheel puller for pulling the mainshaft inner bearing race.

 

Tools Sheeeesh. I knew it was time for a spring clip tool before I started.

The '86 is tapered shaft with keyway and will need the hub puller. (I'm told) I thought my 2 / 3 / 4 bolt pattern pulley puller would work.

Well, on my way to get a snap ring tool and I'll see where that gets me and whether or not the pulley puller I have will work.

I've had a chance to spend a whole 45 minutes on my bike and I've been hustling and working all around the house and property all day. I can't get parts until tomorrow, plus the hub puller, if I need it.

I bought a top of the line primary gasket and it's resealed already twice perfectly. Just hope it'll seal up when I close it up for the last time (this week ... lol)!

I hear you about the "hurry up and wait" crap when you involve someone else in the repairs of your bike. I can never sit still for that and would spend a whole day trying to find someone to press the bearing rather than leave it set and wait for anyone else to finally make it their priority. I hate wasted time and "down time".

Thanks again for all the conversation. My wife wondered why I was communicating online while attempting these repairs and I said I had to check with my "pit crew"...lol. You guys already know how important it is to have some input, guidance and chatter. Next week I'll be telling others how to do it ... lol!

 

Speaking of press, you will want to connect up with someone with a press to press out the clutch hub bearings.If you go as far as the tranny main shaft bearing R&R thats just a matter of a long bolt and large socket for pulling the bearing out. Shouldn't talk about that though, I don't want to jinx you.

 

OK.... I got it out.



It spins very freely but there is a minute grating noise and it sounds like the ***** are shifting and a very minute sounding clatter.

Could it be that's all it takes for the bearing to be shot? (I hope so)

BUT... as I pointed out in the picture the inner race was pressed in slightly off to one side leaving a variation in the height from side to side that is visible.

Does this mean that the hub or drum are bad too because the bearing is twisted?

BTW my pulley puller was perfect. Spring clip tools were $14, and I bought a digital micrometer to check the clutch discs. It's cheap @ $30 but it will tell me if I need new clutch plates or discs.

 

Johnny, the bearing is bad, that's why the races aren't parallel.

 

Yep start with bearing for sure and hopefully it'll be confined to clutch area.

 

John, Lynn,

I get that now ... It's cocked because it's coming apart ... right? Has it damage anything more?

I think it may have been an issue from when I changed out the rotor and stator a year ago. I did not have a micrometer to check the primary chain for "straightness" once the new upgraded (different style) rotor was put on. I used the same spacer washers that were in there from the old one hoping that it was still inline. I will measure front and back the distance of the chain away from the primary inner case according to the book to judge if I need new spacers, and to find out if the original spacers were correct or not.

So, it's only a bearing, and the cost of pressing out the old one and setting the new one. And a quart of fluid! Hope I can find the bearing locally tomorrow!

 

I think a new tight fitting bearing seated properly will do the job and then just check the chain spacing as per manual.

 

Finally got back my clutch hub assembly with the new bearing seated.

I got started about noon and it was going real smooth. This is a view of my workspace taking up half the garage.





Here's what it looks like when I work.



Just finished checking for run out and slack. My cheapy digital micrometer was perfect and precise for setting this part up.



Here's all that was left to assemble .... clutch guts and cover.




You won't believe that I got it assembled enough to test it before I buttoned it up. Fired it up carefully because the starter shaft is not fully supported. I warmed it up in neutral and as I sat down to put it in gear the clutch bracket on top of the tranny decided to snap off. I had grabbed the front brake right away before putting it in gear and other than a delay now until I can located a simple friggin' $7 part I will be on hold to know if the bearing cured this problem, or if I am headed even further in.

I located a part to be shipped if my local guy never gets back to me about having one or not.

To have this break at that moment and not when it would have been real trouble was a good thing. But I hate the suspense!! LOL

More asap ...