Post Your EVO Dyno Numbers
#21
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
Posts: 21,758
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Originally Posted by Nikolaiownz
was thinking
cam
headwork
maybe a better 2in1
i ride an electra glide so i just want abit more buttom power
cam
headwork
maybe a better 2in1
i ride an electra glide so i just want abit more buttom power
I still love my build and it has been a few years.
#22
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
Posts: 20,999
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Stage I: http://www.harley-performance.com/stage-1.html
Stage II: Basically just a cam and cam bearing (if you don't have the torrington bearing already that is)
#23
A stage I and II upgrade will give you a nice boost in power and won't break the pocket book.
Stage I: http://www.harley-performance.com/stage-1.html
Stage II: Basically just a cam and cam bearing (if you don't have the torrington bearing already that is)
Stage I: http://www.harley-performance.com/stage-1.html
Stage II: Basically just a cam and cam bearing (if you don't have the torrington bearing already that is)
Looking for some headwork this vinter with a thinner gasket to bump the compression abit
#24
Something like this engine will get your bottom end moving!
Great build for the Evo is 9.8-1 to 10.0-1 with a EV27 or W6, good valve job with a port cleanup, will do most everything you need. 80/80 is very obtainable.
80" Evo can do a lot, 89" Evo can do more, still very reliable and can take anything thrown at it. 100/100 is obtainable with the right parts.
S&S 124 and Ultima 127 is another world, still feel the numbers the S&S 111 is logging now is off the charts. The 124" and 127" have a lot left in them that can come out, sky is the limit until streetabilty takes hold, bada$$ when getting close to that point
Great build for the Evo is 9.8-1 to 10.0-1 with a EV27 or W6, good valve job with a port cleanup, will do most everything you need. 80/80 is very obtainable.
80" Evo can do a lot, 89" Evo can do more, still very reliable and can take anything thrown at it. 100/100 is obtainable with the right parts.
S&S 124 and Ultima 127 is another world, still feel the numbers the S&S 111 is logging now is off the charts. The 124" and 127" have a lot left in them that can come out, sky is the limit until streetabilty takes hold, bada$$ when getting close to that point
Last edited by 1997bagger; 01-26-2019 at 11:55 PM.
#25
Something like this engine will get your bottom end moving!
Great build for the Evo is 9.8-1 to 10.0-1 with a EV27 or W6, good valve job with a port cleanup, will do most everything you need. 80/80 is very obtainable.
80" Evo can do a lot, 89" Evo can do more, still very reliable and can take anything thrown at it. 100/100 is obtainable with the right parts.
S&S 124 and Ultima 127 is another world, still feel the numbers the S&S 111 is logging now is off the charts. The 124" and 127" have a lot left in them that can come out, sky is the limit until streetabilty takes hold, bada$$ when getting close to that point
Great build for the Evo is 9.8-1 to 10.0-1 with a EV27 or W6, good valve job with a port cleanup, will do most everything you need. 80/80 is very obtainable.
80" Evo can do a lot, 89" Evo can do more, still very reliable and can take anything thrown at it. 100/100 is obtainable with the right parts.
S&S 124 and Ultima 127 is another world, still feel the numbers the S&S 111 is logging now is off the charts. The 124" and 127" have a lot left in them that can come out, sky is the limit until streetabilty takes hold, bada$$ when getting close to that point
100/100 would not be bad at all..
#26
Hotrod on here knows the light bike compression - intake closing ratio for a light bike well, he would be the one to consult if you want to know the fine line.
Note: that 89" S&S flywheel can take anything you throw at it, just do your money numbers and see how close a smaller engine build comes to a S&S 111, it's hp/tq numbers are amazing out of the box
#27
You can run your compression up but need to head towards a later intake closing cam. Didn't recall if you have a bagger or light bike, 10.2-1 is max for a bagger with around a 40 degree intake closing cam, dropping back some on the compression is safe on hot days, heavy loads or 93 octane not available being a bagger once again.
Hotrod on here knows the light bike compression - intake closing ratio for a light bike well, he would be the one to consult if you want to know the fine line.
Note: that 89" S&S flywheel can take anything you throw at it, just do your money numbers and see how close a smaller engine build comes to a S&S 111, it's hp/tq numbers are amazing out of the box
Hotrod on here knows the light bike compression - intake closing ratio for a light bike well, he would be the one to consult if you want to know the fine line.
Note: that 89" S&S flywheel can take anything you throw at it, just do your money numbers and see how close a smaller engine build comes to a S&S 111, it's hp/tq numbers are amazing out of the box
I ride a electra glide 1996.. someone told me to keep the compression under 10 for reliability...
#28
Didn't headquarters and rev performance have some decent bolt on kits . Without touching bottom end similar to how the twin cams use the 110 kits now? http://www.revperf.com/product_info....7u7qsgvsnumvd2
#29
Didn't headquarters and rev performance have some decent bolt on kits . Without touching bottom end similar to how the twin cams use the 110 kits now? http://www.revperf.com/product_info....7u7qsgvsnumvd2
#30
Thanks , I ran 107 Rev Perf kit on n my streetglide for 50,000 hard miles no issues. I havnt heard of any issues with there cylinders for years.