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89 softail custom charging system issue and possible short?

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Old 09-20-2011, 11:51 AM
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Default 89 softail custom charging system issue and possible short?

wondering if anybody has a solution or if its happend to anyone before?

i have an 89 softail custom.... its got a 1340 S&S motor. i got stuck up in laconia with a dead battery while driving. got a new battery and the same thing happend again except near home.

that was when i realized it was my charging system not the battery. after some inspection i realize the voltage regulator came unplugged from the stator. can this cause any damage? would the stator fry since it was making power and had nowhere to put it? i ohmed it with a meter and got a higher number than 0.2-0.4 as the manual says. it didnt give me 0 though. i plugged the plug back in, but theres nothing to hold it in good. should i silicone it?

after this issue above occured i plugged it back in and it sat for a week. now when i go to start it, it sounds like a low battery or bad starter. the starter is drawing like 1000 amps.... and when i turn the key on without the motor running, a relay clicks and the front blinkers flash every 5 seconds or so. is there a short somewhere?

also, my headlight cooks its ground wire. i had a loose ground to the battery a while ago but also fixed it a while ago, and it went out again, so i assumed it cooked it again

any suggestions? could all these problems be related? im about to take the tanks off to looks for a short but want an opinion first
im still hoping to get a few more rides in before its too cold
 
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:40 PM
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anybody? a guy on the softail section told me this was the place to post....
 
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:50 AM
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That plug can sometimes come loose, on a 20+ year old bike the stator plug rubber sometimes gets swollen and kind of soft from being oil impregnated and the regular plug does not fit all the way on. Don't fool with it too much or you'll end up with an primary oil leak as well at the electrical issue(ask me how I know this..LOL). I have something like this and it keeps the plug on:

http://www.jpcycles.com/search/searc...r+plug&Ntk=All

First thing; You need to determine if your charging system is in order, then work on the possible short. Often, a bad stator will make the primary oil smell bad, open the chain inspection cover and take a wiff. This is something I copied from another post on here and I keep it in my manual because it's very good:

Important information about Harley Davidson full wave charging systems (covering 70-05 Touring, 84-07 XL, 84-00 Softail, 91-03 Dynas, All FXR’s)

1. Battery Test:

The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

2. Charging System Voltage Test:

Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

3. Check Connections/Wires:

Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check:

Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).

AC Output Check:

Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
Generic Specs:

22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm

Stator Resistance Check:

Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
Generic Specs:

22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms

Stator IB test or Ground Check:

Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.

5. Regulator Test:

Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.

Identifying Wires:

Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.

- Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
- Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.

Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
__________________


hope this helps,
Doug
 
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:11 PM
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Outstanding response Doug, I'm sure that will be very helpful for Tony and others. Good job
 
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:35 PM
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yep hopefully i have some luck... thanks for the response. ill get started when i have some free time.... grad school is kicking my *** right now
 
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