I came across the same problem this winter when I wanted to upgrade the pipes, I found a real nice set of header pipes and python muflers off an 06 for less than 200 bux. I know Robs used motorcycle parts has some great deals on full exhaust as well.

 

I have a full headpipe set with heat shields, from an 06 twinkie that I'm not gunna use.

 

Just like a Staples commercial..."That was easy!"

On my '96, the headpipes ID were just a hair bigger than the OD of the mufflers. I cut my headpipes down about an inch so they would expand, and tapped em together with a leather mallet. Rather than clamping it, I welded 'em.

The Hookers have a great note and are unique. For $72 to my door, you just can't beat it!!

 

Are you gonna be able to slide the rear axle out to service the tire ?

 

I have an 08 SuperTrapp system on my 1990 FLHS, it bolted straight on. Bought my bike new and when the original pipes broke a second time I replaced them with a later set. We Evo owners will be fine until the market stops making set-ups for 08s!

Leave the flanged mufflers for someone who needs them! Must be others out there waiting for you to snap them up, that will bolt straight on.

 

After I read your post, I had an "Oh sh*t!" moment! I had not considered that at all. After checking the answer is "Yes!".

The taper on the Hookers is pretty minimal until you get past the axle, then it takes off to the end diameter which is unlike most bagger mufflers that are the "full diameter" right after the coupling with the headpipes.

The whole works are getting ceramic coated now; can't wait to get 'em back and RIDE!

 

I have a 93 FLTCU all stock. I kept my 07' EG Classic V&H slip ons because they had less than a 1000 miles on 'em when I got rid of the '07. I was looking at that flange where the original mufflers would connect too and was wondering if I cut off that flange the later model slip-ons look like they would just slip right on over the pipe. Using the wide clamp that came with the V&H mufflers looks like it would seal and support pretty well. Any ideas before I cut off that flange and then give an oh, $hit when it doesn't work?

 

Other people have done exactly that, Gary. The only negative I've heard is that you may need to keep an eye on the joint to make sure it doesn't come loose. Maybe some didn't tighten the clamp enough.

 

Thanks Dr. Hess for the quick reply back.
Off with the flange tomorrow morning. While I have your brain, I'm new to carburetors on a bike (had fuel injection on previous bike) - If I put on the V&H slash cut slip-ons, do I need to re-jet the carb? Last time I re-jetted a carb was on my '69 SS 396-375hp back in '69. How about adding a K&N filter? And how do I select jets besides buying a few dozen and trying them out? Is there some book or forum that can lead me in the right direction for re-jetting if necessary?

Makes me want to wait before I do any mods on this old 80" EVO with only 35k miles on her. I'm the 2nd owner and the first one kept her immaculate and stock and I want to treat her the same except for some sound increase in the exhaust department.
thanks - gary

 

Changing the air cleaner and muffler may need some fiddling with the jets, or not. And, the jets may need fiddling now. Hard to say. I don't know what carb came on your bike or what's on there now, but this forum is the place to help you get it set right. I suggest starting a new thread describing what you have exactly and go from there. There are some really good carb experts on here. I know S&S Super E's OK, and MegaSquirt (which Dr.Linda has the only running Harley on MegaSquirt that I know of). The stock CV carbs are good. The stock butterfly carbs are poor paperweights.

Anyway, describe what you have and someone that knows your carb will chip in with some advice.