Ultima Single fire on 91 Ultra
#11
04-23-2019, 06:29 PM
Grand HDF Member
Can anyone help me figure out whats going on with my bike. I installed the ultima single fire ignition kit. Ran fine the first day. A few days later after the rain quit, i went to fire it up to ride it to work and now its only firing on the front cylinder. My plugs and wires are good just mind boggled on this. Thanks
#12
04-23-2019, 07:55 PM
Static timing according to Ultima's instructions will get you pretty close:
Rotate the ignition to cause the status LED to turn off and on. Carefully follow this next instruction: find the point where the LED just turns off while rotating the base plate in a clockwise direction. Lock down the ignition. The initial timing is now set close to optimum. Final timing may be checked and set dynamically to compensate for normal production tolerances in the timing rotor, camshaft indexing, flywheel marking, etc.
As mentioned, check vacuum hose and connections to the voes, proper switch settings on module and fire it up. YD
Rotate the ignition to cause the status LED to turn off and on. Carefully follow this next instruction: find the point where the LED just turns off while rotating the base plate in a clockwise direction. Lock down the ignition. The initial timing is now set close to optimum. Final timing may be checked and set dynamically to compensate for normal production tolerances in the timing rotor, camshaft indexing, flywheel marking, etc.
As mentioned, check vacuum hose and connections to the voes, proper switch settings on module and fire it up. YD
#13
04-23-2019, 08:04 PM
Grand HDF Member
Static timing according to Ultima's instructions will get you pretty close:
Rotate the ignition to cause the status LED to turn off and on. Carefully follow this next instruction: find the point where the LED just turns off while rotating the base plate in a clockwise direction. Lock down the ignition. The initial timing is now set close to optimum. Final timing may be checked and set dynamically to compensate for normal production tolerances in the timing rotor, camshaft indexing, flywheel marking, etc.
As mentioned, check vacuum hose and connections to the voes, proper switch settings on module and fire it up. YD
Rotate the ignition to cause the status LED to turn off and on. Carefully follow this next instruction: find the point where the LED just turns off while rotating the base plate in a clockwise direction. Lock down the ignition. The initial timing is now set close to optimum. Final timing may be checked and set dynamically to compensate for normal production tolerances in the timing rotor, camshaft indexing, flywheel marking, etc.
As mentioned, check vacuum hose and connections to the voes, proper switch settings on module and fire it up. YD
#14
04-24-2019, 04:20 AM
Yes, one of their coils has a bad rep and history of just crapping out, and most common is firing on only one cylinder. I think it is 53-632. They have a fairly new coil/part number that has a better rep part #53-434.
Supposedly this company is the source of the coils, however both coils are still made in China even though the company is US based.
http://www.midwestcoil.com/index.htm
Supposedly this company is the source of the coils, however both coils are still made in China even though the company is US based.
http://www.midwestcoil.com/index.htm
#15
04-24-2019, 09:59 PM
Advanced
I have mine installed from about 2 years ago - kit and all and it is still running without an issue.
That being said - if I recall correctly there are 2 signal pins and 1 ground pin in the coil that handle the signals.
Easiest way if you're not afraid of some shock (it hurts but it goes away quickly). - pull out the spark plug, reattach it to the wire, start the bike and put the grounding ring/rod of the plug on the cylinder and look for spark.
No spark, time to get out the voltmeter and measure if plug wires are good with (+) in the plug wire and (-) on the cylinder.
Keep working your way back piece by piece.
If there's an issue that's how you find it.
That being said - if I recall correctly there are 2 signal pins and 1 ground pin in the coil that handle the signals.
Easiest way if you're not afraid of some shock (it hurts but it goes away quickly). - pull out the spark plug, reattach it to the wire, start the bike and put the grounding ring/rod of the plug on the cylinder and look for spark.
No spark, time to get out the voltmeter and measure if plug wires are good with (+) in the plug wire and (-) on the cylinder.
Keep working your way back piece by piece.
If there's an issue that's how you find it.
#16
08-13-2019, 03:47 PM
HDF Community Team
Wonder if any of those guys figured out their problems...
Had a problem with an Ultima 53-642 ignition several years ago. Ran great about 500 miles and the first storm I hit, it would barely run. Sat there 15 minutes started right up but a little rough. Traffic cleared and made it the last mile to the shed. Running ok but a little off. Had a sprayer with window cleaner and 3 pumps toward the coil it died. Repeated that 4 times with same results. The coils that come (or came) with those kits are very cheap. They separate at the face/case joint, gets water inside and shorts out. Got a new Accel coil and it's been happy ever since.
Had a problem with an Ultima 53-642 ignition several years ago. Ran great about 500 miles and the first storm I hit, it would barely run. Sat there 15 minutes started right up but a little rough. Traffic cleared and made it the last mile to the shed. Running ok but a little off. Had a sprayer with window cleaner and 3 pumps toward the coil it died. Repeated that 4 times with same results. The coils that come (or came) with those kits are very cheap. They separate at the face/case joint, gets water inside and shorts out. Got a new Accel coil and it's been happy ever since.
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