Codes are two digits:
The rapid flash is nothing, just a warning to get pencil ready...
The "real flashes are very very slow with about a 1 second wait between each flash and then it waits about 4 seconds for second number..
example code 56 very common
a-super rapid flash for about 5 seconds
b-the no flash for about 2 seconds
c-then a flash per second
d-then no flash for 2 seconds
e-then a flash per second
f-then rapid flashing and stop...then next code or it will just cycle back if one code.
Disconnect all power at battery to reset.

 

see if this works for you#14 is engine temp. sensor.
does this work for you?:
1-turn ignition key switch to ignition/ run switch to run and then turn off 1 second after fuel pump stops.
2.repeat #1 again..remember 1 second after pump stops
3.turn ignition key switch to ignition and wait about 8 seconds for a bunch of flashing of the check engine light
it will then stop for 2 seconds..get ready... these are the codes you must count:
it will slowly flash 1,2,3,5....there is NO 4....this is the first digit of the 2 digit code ..so it can only be 1,2,3,5 __ __
then a 2 second pause...then you will get second digit of the 2 digit code..it can only be 1,2,3,4,5,6
remember after the complete 2 digit code is given you will go back to the rapid flash sequence..
there are a total of about 15 codes available with this procedure
examples
52,53,54,55 bad news ECM replacement(rare)
56 crank/cam sensor (common)
11 throttle sensor
12 barometric 14 engine temp. sensor 15 intake temp sensor
23 and 32 are injectors front/rear
24 coil
33 fuel pump relay--in this case you would not hear the pump but instead waited 3 seconds after the on / off sequence

 

tried again, still getting something that i think is weird. it stays in the rapid flash sequence for a WHILE. i took a short video, so you can see too. it did have a couple of pauses in the rapid one though, and i got 4 more numbers

2 3 5 6
and
5 4 2 1

here's the video, dont think its supposed to be doing this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0feB...ature=youtu.be

 

That is the rapid flash before a code and also after a code.
Translation: you have no stored codes..No codes have been triggered. The system is clean, good and is showing no historical codes. To be crystal clear, unless you just disconnected the battery (which would have cleared any codes) the computer is showing no problems.
The engine temp. sensor sometimes does not show a code.
Consider testing it when you have a moment.

If you had a code it would show after that rapid flash sequence...it would be a pause(light off) and then would be slow very easy to count.. a pause(off) then slow easy to count..No rush to count..very very slow and easy..once code was released it would cycle again with the rapid flash..
excellent idea with the video.
Any possibility that the wire to engine temp sensor was disconnected for some reason?? you are talking about a very low mileage bike so i am thinking loose or bad connection someplace ..please make sure to check that crank position sensor wire also...but the crank sensor connection would cause a quick cut-off while the ETS is more of eratic running and surging

 

Coil is breaking down or pickup. Read your own posts and answered your problem, runs like crap hot and let it set cools off runs good for a short period (temperature is affecting the problem) heavy exhaust gas smell when acting up which is incomplete combustion not loss of fuel injection, acts up in upper gears which is more load on the ignition system to ignite the cylinder.

Take the cover off the pickup and release some heat during a roadtest and see what happens but I'll bet the pickup is melted when you pull the cover

If not the pickup and acting up at idle when returning, pull a plug wire off with proper pliers when idleing and see if a yellow or no spark is on one of the cylinders

Making this too difficult because it is EFI


Private email an address and I'll send you a coil for testing unless you are considering a carb conversion which is the best thing I did for perfomance, runability and I really wanted to keep the EFI control system but wasn't and option in my engine direction.

 

dont think it's *just* the ignition, unfortunately. the pickup is fine (had it out when we fixed the broken snap ring and key on the oil pump driveshaft)...and the coil tests "okay" according to my multimeter (followed the directions in the FSM, since i dont have a coil tester)....testing okay doesnt mean that it isnt heating up though, as you said, and breaking down.

tested the ETS last night when i got home after a ride (it was running ok, was back and forth from running great to running like crap, and back again). ETS numbers didnt jive with the chart you gave me, cam sensor is indeed starting to ooze, and TPS was no longer reading 1.3-3.0ohms smoothly (it'd jump all over the place)

at that point, I caved, and ordered a Dyna 2000P ignition system, and im taking a ride with a buddy of mine to the harley "boneyard" as he calls it....gonna pick up a stock carb setup (and hopefully a harness). best part is, the guy said he might be interested in doing some horsetrading for my MM EFI stuff (meaning I might get most of my conversion for little to no cash on my end, aside from what I already spent on the Dyna ignition).

I do have plans for the engine, which is why I'm hesitant to throw any more money into sensors and whatnot. I'm doing a cam over the winter (probably an EV27), and hopefully some oversized valves (probably gonna deck the heads 0.050" while i've got them off). At that point, I'll spend the $$ on a Mikuni 42HSR.

Thanks for all the help guys, it's much appreciated.

 

Well, everything's ordered / in transit. Mikuni hsr42, dyna 2000p ignition, and (I think) all the odds and ends except a VTA breather for the heads (i refuse to send oily vapor back into my intake) and an inline fuel filter.

question for the electrical gurus:

How hard is it to chop/modify the old wiring harness (or do i even need to) for the carb conversion? the Dyna ignition is wiring straight to +12v switched, so as far as i know, I dont need the VOES switch.

life will be much simpler if I can just tuck the rest of the harness up under the tank (or just make a new harness, it appears the carb-interconnect harness is only a couple of wires?)

(I do want to remove the MM "brain" completely, so I can use that space to mount the new ignition module)

 

[quote=Jasper86;10361951]Well, everything's ordered / in transit. Mikuni hsr42, dyna 2000p ignition, and (I think) all the odds and ends except a VTA breather for the heads (i refuse to send oily vapor back into my intake) and an inline fuel filter.

question for the electrical gurus:

How hard is it to chop/modify the old wiring harness (or do i even need to) for the carb conversion? the Dyna ignition is wiring straight to +12v switched, so as far as i know, I dont need the VOES switch.

life will be much simpler if I can just tuck the rest of the harness up under the tank (or just make a new harness, it appears the carb-interconnect harness is only a couple of wires?)

Harley has a service replacement ECM for MM bikes. It is an S&S unit under the Harley that fits directly to the existing harness. Kit comes with CD disk for downloads. This fixed all my MM problems. In addition find a Screamin Eagle Stage II kit it will also have the S&S ECM plus a high flow air cleaner,high flow red top injectors and the Andrews E27 cam also under the Harley name. I picked it up on ebay for $200. By a new cam sensor and ETS. Did this to my sick MM bike and now it screams and runs like a top. 46,000 miles.

 

bike already had the whole screaming eagle stage 2 kit (i think...def had a SE stage 2 map on the ECM, and the red injectors). not sure on the cam (has no discernible markings when I had the cam chest open)....will double check when I get a chance to pop off one of the pushrod covers and see if it's got adjustables.

i've already made the decision to go to carb (the HSR42 will be here monday or tuesday if all goes according to plan). the only obstacle now is the harness, which seems (according to the FSM anyways) *very* simple. 7 wires, oughta be able to make that out of the existing EFI harness.

 

does the bike have the black plastic ECM in it? Has a small removable cover that has the mini USB port under it?