How to change a drive belt - 101 Pt 2
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12-09-2012, 10:12 PM
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How to change a drive belt - 101 Pt 2
Now remove the clutch hub nut, which is left hand thread
Undo the chain tensioner bolt
Remove the nut and washer and prepare to lift off the whole clutch, chain, tensioner and sprocket assembly on one go
Place it on some cardboard
Jackshaft spacer next
Look at it carefully as it only goes in one way....if you look at it you will see a circlip inside and the circlip sits nearer the back of the spacer than the front....so think of the back as the side that goes in towards the starter motor, looking from the outside the deep part of the splined hole should be towards you
Undo the tabs on the bolts that hold the inner primary to the tranny and the motor....don't forget the two that sit at the front, outside the chaincase...these are inside ones
Remove the inner primary and put it somewhere safe
Here is what it looks like with the primaries off
Now you can get at the front bolt of the lower chainguard, just slacken the bolt and twist the guard off as it is a keyhole slot
Loosen the rear axle and slacken off the adjusters so the wheel is fully forward and the belt as slack as it can be
Remove the lower bolt from the right hand shock and pull it up out of the way
Wiggle the old belt out from where it has been for the last 14 years
Fit the new belt so you can read the writing....this is not crucial but it helps to always do them the same in case you ever take it off for some other reason....you want it to go back the same way
If you are going to replace the shift shaft seal, do it before fitting the belt, Dr Phil's was fine so we left well alone
New belt goes on
Then you can roughly tension the belt, do it properly once the bike is back down on the ground
Always replace the front sealing ring, don't be cheapass and use silicone, I will come and slap you if you do that
Lever out the inner primary bearing seal and tap the new one in with a big socket...the spring goes towards the oil....I have seen them done inside out
Now go to part 3
Undo the chain tensioner bolt
Remove the nut and washer and prepare to lift off the whole clutch, chain, tensioner and sprocket assembly on one go
Place it on some cardboard
Jackshaft spacer next
Look at it carefully as it only goes in one way....if you look at it you will see a circlip inside and the circlip sits nearer the back of the spacer than the front....so think of the back as the side that goes in towards the starter motor, looking from the outside the deep part of the splined hole should be towards you
Undo the tabs on the bolts that hold the inner primary to the tranny and the motor....don't forget the two that sit at the front, outside the chaincase...these are inside ones
Remove the inner primary and put it somewhere safe
Here is what it looks like with the primaries off
Now you can get at the front bolt of the lower chainguard, just slacken the bolt and twist the guard off as it is a keyhole slot
Loosen the rear axle and slacken off the adjusters so the wheel is fully forward and the belt as slack as it can be
Remove the lower bolt from the right hand shock and pull it up out of the way
Wiggle the old belt out from where it has been for the last 14 years
Fit the new belt so you can read the writing....this is not crucial but it helps to always do them the same in case you ever take it off for some other reason....you want it to go back the same way
If you are going to replace the shift shaft seal, do it before fitting the belt, Dr Phil's was fine so we left well alone
New belt goes on
Then you can roughly tension the belt, do it properly once the bike is back down on the ground
Always replace the front sealing ring, don't be cheapass and use silicone, I will come and slap you if you do that
Lever out the inner primary bearing seal and tap the new one in with a big socket...the spring goes towards the oil....I have seen them done inside out
Now go to part 3
Last edited by Spanners39; 12-09-2012 at 10:53 PM.
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