Doing top end on my stock 1991 FLT. I was installing rear piston on rod. When starting to pull wrist pin through rod bushing, I apparently had piston at slight angle and wrist pin met resistance and then when on through. Piston felt a little tight on wrist pin. I pulled piston back off and found I had slightly scared approx 1/4 of width at one side of rod bushing and runs about 1/3 the diameter of the bushing. I can feel a very small indention in the bushing were the end of the pin pressed into it due to wrong angle of installation. I installed pin in bushing and worked back and fourth horizonally and turned pin in bushing for a short time and bushing to pin clearance feels fine now. Should I replace this piston rod bushing or would it be ok to use bushing as is since clearance between pin and bushing is now good. I don't want to screw this up.

Also, if I have to wait to get tools to replace and ream the bushing, is there a problem installing the front cylinder and head now while I am waiting? I assume you can remove and replace rear cylinder with front cylinder intact. Any help really appreciated. Thanks!!

 

I would replace it. If you can see and feel any defects then it's time to replace it. Yes you can put the other cylinder together. Where are you located??
John

 

I really appreciate your reply. I am in Huntsville, Al

 

The manual says to ream and hone installed bushing. What do you use to hone the bushing with. Manual says use hone mounted to electric drill. Is the ream an adjustable ream or a dedicated ream. Thanks!!

 

There are dedicated reamers that most motorcycle tool companies sell. There also is a tool to remove/replace rod bushings.Take a look at George's garage site. He sells quality tools at reasonable prices. Obviously the best way to hone the rod would be to dissamble the engine and use a sunnen, etc. hone. But you can do it in the engine with a drill, but be careful as you don't need much clearance. Besure to check the fit a couple of hours after you are done as the rod end can cool down and close up the clearance a bit. Hope this helps.
John

 

I too am in hsv if you need assistance there is a
Great guy named Tim he owns backstreet cycles
In harvest and also works for north al biker supply
Give biker supply a call tomorrow and they can get
You in contact ith him or you pm me and I'll get
His number to you

 

Thanks for the help Chopper Bob. I bit the bullet and decided to order a Jims bushing reamer this morning, so I guess I will attempt to do it myself. I have another motor I will be overhauling in next year, so I will be able to use the reamer again.

 

You might want to also order a rod holding fixture. It goes over the studs and holds the rod steady while you ream and hone it.
John

 

I dont understand when you said you " pulled " the wrist pin through the piston and bushing ? Did you use a devise of some kind to do this that would lead to damage to the bushing ?
I ask this as normally the fit is loose enough to simply push the pin through with your fingers.?
If you have gouged enough material from the bushing to actually feel it as you say , then replacement is required for sure .
Also be sure you are replacing the original pistons in the exact location and orientation they were removed from .
Im no expert ., but i dont get this ?

 

The piston pins are a light press fit through the pistons, not the rod bushings. I was using a wrist pin installer tool, actually pressing the pin one side of piston into bushing. I should have headed the piston first and the pin would have inserted without the tool.