1986 EVO clutch adjuster plate
#1
1986 EVO clutch adjuster plate
He all,
I have replaced my clutch pack on my 1986 FLST and reading the manual it says there are 3 settings on the clutch adjuster plate that I can use when I screw it back on to the pressure plate. They are A, B and C.
I was wondering if anyone know what the purpose of these settings are and which setting would be best.
Also when I adjust the clutch I have read that I need to seat the adjuster screw (should this be seated lightly or firmly) and then I need to back it out 1/2 a turn but some places say 3/4 of a turn and even 1 whole turn....which one would be correct?
Any help on these would be greatly appreciated..
I have replaced my clutch pack on my 1986 FLST and reading the manual it says there are 3 settings on the clutch adjuster plate that I can use when I screw it back on to the pressure plate. They are A, B and C.
I was wondering if anyone know what the purpose of these settings are and which setting would be best.
Also when I adjust the clutch I have read that I need to seat the adjuster screw (should this be seated lightly or firmly) and then I need to back it out 1/2 a turn but some places say 3/4 of a turn and even 1 whole turn....which one would be correct?
Any help on these would be greatly appreciated..
#3
#4
#5
The adjuster screw is a separate adjustment from the plate you are talking about. The plate sets the spring tension and that is important to how the clutch will work. Too tight and you will break clutch fingers, in my experience. The adjuster screw you are referring to is part of the cable system, really. You set the cable about middle or so at the top of the transmission where it screws in, then screw in the adjuster screw until you take all the slack out of the clutch lever on the handlebar, then back it off 3/4 turn. It isn't all that critical, as you will really do the final adjustment at the top of the transmission to get the lever to have the proper amount of free play.
#6
On my bike the adjuster screw is in the primary (where the adjuster plate is) and the clutch cable does not screw in to the transmission but slips in to a clutch release lever that is attached to the transmission.
The clutch cable goes directly from the hand lever to the clutch release lever on the transmission and there is no adjuster on the cable. Hope that makes sense?
The clutch cable goes directly from the hand lever to the clutch release lever on the transmission and there is no adjuster on the cable. Hope that makes sense?
#7
Trending Topics
#8
After you have removed the cable from the arm on top of the trans. you will need to put a strait edge across the clutch hub in pic.1 and use a feeler gauge to ensure it is within spec. according to the manual. Tension on the round spring can be changed by removing the bolts and rotating the hub to another letter. You must check the hub to spring clearance (and follow the manual when loosening and tightening the bolts) or your clutch will not be adjusted.
Next you loosen the adjuster lock nut and using a allen key bring the adjuster out and then back in to lightly seat, back off 1/2-3/4 but not more then one turn, be sure to use the allen key to hold the adjuster in place while tightening.
Now you can put the cable back on and adjust to spec using the screw adjuster that is in back of #2 piston mounted to the trans.
There are a lot of good vids on youtube that show how to adjust the cable as well.
Next you loosen the adjuster lock nut and using a allen key bring the adjuster out and then back in to lightly seat, back off 1/2-3/4 but not more then one turn, be sure to use the allen key to hold the adjuster in place while tightening.
Now you can put the cable back on and adjust to spec using the screw adjuster that is in back of #2 piston mounted to the trans.
There are a lot of good vids on youtube that show how to adjust the cable as well.
#9
#10