so i have power at the ignition module and think that i have everything wired rite but i am still not getting any spark. i had to the replace the sensor plate. could off timing cause no spark at all? this is exactly how i have the ignition wired up. it turns over but i cant get any spark. the red wire has power when key is in acc position and in starter position. that way when u turn the key to off position it acts as a kill switch. am i correct in thinking this way? by the way everything worked 100% before tear down i only replaced sensor plat because it was old

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Wire to ign switch might be wrong, you should have 2 wires to coil, white/black which comes down from your kill switch, also connects to the module and brings power to both. Then there is the pink from module to the other post on the coil (this is the pulse that makes the spark) this wire also goes to the tacho if fitted.

First, check that these two wires are correctly attached and that the tacho feed (if fitted) is not grounded.

Timing being off will not stop it sparking and the pick up is only 3 wires and they all go to the module.

You may have dropped the power to your module or put power into wrong side of coil, either way, this pic will help even though it isn't for your exact bike.

 

Back in the good old when points drove everything. when they broke (apart) you got a spark, (the voltage was being applied to the heavy windings and when you broke the ground, it had no where to go but to the fine wire and they created the high voltage, low amperage that had the power to jump to the ground (sparkplug). Your sensor plate does the same thing. My guess is you replaced an old part with a bad part. There are three wires in the insulation case coming off the sensor plate.

 

Not to get too technical, well, maybe, but the sensor plate does not do the same thing as the points did, besides provide timing. And that's not how the coil works either. The ignition module breaks the circuit like the points did. The sensor plate tells the ignition module when to break the circuit. With the circuit connected (equivalent to points closed), Direct Current is flowing through the primary of the coil, creating a magnetic field around it. The coil is "charged." When the ignition module opens the circuit (equivalent to the points opening,) the magnetic field around the coil collapses, which induces current to flow in the coil's secondary field (your "fine wire") which is actually a step-up transformer, generating high voltage but low current, which then jumps across your spark plugs.

Now, will it work with the timing off? Yeah. You'll get spark with the timing off. Even way off. My guess would be that you don't have it all wired up correctly. Make sure that the wire going to #16 in your picture is on the same terminal as the wire coming from your electrical switch and that the other wire, the one with the ring terminal in your pic, is on the other side of the coil.

 

Check voltage to #16 while cranking it, make sure there's not too much voltage drop.

Also double check the wires in the sensor connector are installed correct and making contact.

 

You may have to follow the testing procedure to see if there is a fault in one of the components.

 

I was thinking same thing till I studied Spanners' sheet and the fact that there has been three or four post that the pickup can go bad, and that is why I said what I said. In Spanner's sheet, the cam sensor is the pickup just for the spark or it also feeding a ECM of sorts for a trouble light check?

 

The cam sensor is hooked to the ignition module only, which is an ECM of sorts. No check engine lights/codes are available. The Book does have some basic tests you can perform on the sensor and the module. It is certainly possible that the new sensor plate is bad, or that the wires broke somewhere during all the work, but I think the biggest risk would be that it isn't wired up as he thinks it is.

 

ok so what i have figured out from my manual trouble shooting tests is coil is good and has power. when going to test between the sensor plate and module i found some issues. manual says to use volt meter and test volts between black and green wire and black and red wire for 12 volts. when testing just the plug side coming from the module, test light lights up for red and black wire but not green wire. and volt meter reads 11.5 on red and black and reads 9 or 10 on green? isin"t one of these suppose to be ground? and why is the green wire have less volts and not light up with a test light. also when you connect to sensor plate plug all wires light up with test light. if that black wire is suppose to be ground im amusing that the module is bad.? but like i said bike was running good before i parked. i sparked up a few times when wiring could that have blown the module? thanks guys

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i also found some messed up wires under the shrink wrap from harnes plug to module. maby these could have caused it? but like i said bike ran good before parking
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